instrument cluster or ignition switch
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
found a ground connection just to the front of the truck from the battery cleaned it and still nothing. then I found this guessin it came from a dealer manual or something and it says nothing bout a ignition going bad so I guess I'm wrong but who knows. On mine the indicator lamp work. Gauges and odometer do not so i'm going to try and follow this. just need the pin out for the cluster.
If the indicator lamps operate, but none of the gauges operate, go to Step 2. If all of the gauges and the data bus message-controlled indicator lamps are inoperative, go to Step 5.
Check the Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
Check for battery voltage at the IOD fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit as required.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster as described in this group. Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the cluster wire harness connector. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the IOD fuse as required.
Check the switched ignition fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
Turn the ignition switch to the On position and check for battery voltage at the switched ignition fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the ignition switch as required.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Reinstall the instrument cluster. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Set the parking brake. The red brake warning lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, go to Step 9.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Turn on the park lamps and adjust the panel lamps dimmer rheostat to the full bright position. The cluster illumination lamps should light. If OK, go to Step 10. If not OK, repair the power ground circuit from the instrument cluster wire harness connector to ground as required.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster as described in this group. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit cavity of the cluster wire harness connector. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the junction block as required.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster as described in this group. Check for continuity between the logic ground circuit cavity of the cluster wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to ground as required.
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC TEST
The instrument cluster self-diagnostic test will put the cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the cluster circuitry, gauges, and lamps are capable of operating as designed.
However, there may still be a problem with the CCD data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Airbag Control Module (ACM), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the inputs to one of these modules. Use a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual for testing of these components.
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
Depress the trip odometer reset button.
While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.
Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
A series of three-digit numeric failure messages may appear in the odometer display, depending upon the failure mode. If a failure message appears, see the Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction. If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed as described in Step 6.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILURE MESSAGE
Message Description Correction
110 A failure has been identified in the cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM. 1. Replace the faulty cluster.
900 The CCD data bus is not operational. 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the cluster.2. Check the cluster fuses.3. Check the CCD data bus bias.4. Check the CCD data bus voltage.5. Check the CCD data bus terminations.
920 The cluster is not receiving message $24 from the PCM. 1. Check the PCM software level and reflash if required.2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the $24 message is being sent by the PCM.
921 The cluster is not receiving message $84 from the PCM. 1. Check the PCM software level and reflash if required.2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the $84 message is being sent by the PCM.
940 The cluster is not receiving message $50 from the ACM. 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the ACM.2. Check the ACM fuse.
950 The cluster is not receiving message $B0 from the CAB. 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the CAB.2. Check the CAB fuse.
999 An error has been discovered. 1. Record the failure message.2. Depress the trip odometer reset button to continue the Self-Diagnostic Test.
.
The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster. Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed as described in Step 7.
The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the bulb and bulb holder check OK, replace the faulty cluster. Each of the red indicators are illuminated by a Light Emitting Diode (LED) If an LED fails to illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed as described in Step 8.
The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed. The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.
Go back to Step 1 to repeat the test, if required.
If the indicator lamps operate, but none of the gauges operate, go to Step 2. If all of the gauges and the data bus message-controlled indicator lamps are inoperative, go to Step 5.
Check the Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
Check for battery voltage at the IOD fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit as required.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster as described in this group. Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the cluster wire harness connector. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the IOD fuse as required.
Check the switched ignition fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
Turn the ignition switch to the On position and check for battery voltage at the switched ignition fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the ignition switch as required.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Reinstall the instrument cluster. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Set the parking brake. The red brake warning lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, go to Step 9.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Turn on the park lamps and adjust the panel lamps dimmer rheostat to the full bright position. The cluster illumination lamps should light. If OK, go to Step 10. If not OK, repair the power ground circuit from the instrument cluster wire harness connector to ground as required.
Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster as described in this group. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit cavity of the cluster wire harness connector. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the junction block as required.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster as described in this group. Check for continuity between the logic ground circuit cavity of the cluster wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to ground as required.
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC TEST
The instrument cluster self-diagnostic test will put the cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the cluster circuitry, gauges, and lamps are capable of operating as designed.
However, there may still be a problem with the CCD data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Airbag Control Module (ACM), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the inputs to one of these modules. Use a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual for testing of these components.
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
Depress the trip odometer reset button.
While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.
Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
A series of three-digit numeric failure messages may appear in the odometer display, depending upon the failure mode. If a failure message appears, see the Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction. If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed as described in Step 6.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILURE MESSAGE
Message Description Correction
110 A failure has been identified in the cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM. 1. Replace the faulty cluster.
900 The CCD data bus is not operational. 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the cluster.2. Check the cluster fuses.3. Check the CCD data bus bias.4. Check the CCD data bus voltage.5. Check the CCD data bus terminations.
920 The cluster is not receiving message $24 from the PCM. 1. Check the PCM software level and reflash if required.2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the $24 message is being sent by the PCM.
921 The cluster is not receiving message $84 from the PCM. 1. Check the PCM software level and reflash if required.2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the $84 message is being sent by the PCM.
940 The cluster is not receiving message $50 from the ACM. 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the ACM.2. Check the ACM fuse.
950 The cluster is not receiving message $B0 from the CAB. 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the CAB.2. Check the CAB fuse.
999 An error has been discovered. 1. Record the failure message.2. Depress the trip odometer reset button to continue the Self-Diagnostic Test.
.
The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster. Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed as described in Step 7.
The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the bulb and bulb holder check OK, replace the faulty cluster. Each of the red indicators are illuminated by a Light Emitting Diode (LED) If an LED fails to illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed as described in Step 8.
The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed. The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.
Go back to Step 1 to repeat the test, if required.
Last edited by KillerKilgore; Jun 25, 2014 at 01:04 AM.
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
also found this
Ok, check for power on terminals 2 and 6 with the key on, and check for ground on terminals 4 and 5
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER-C1
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 B9 20WT BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR
2 F12 20DB/WT FUSED FEED (START/RUN)
3 G11 20BR BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR
4 Z2 20BK/TN GROUND
5 Z1 20BK GROUND
6 M1 20PK FUSED B(+)
7 T18 20LG/OR OVERDRIVE INDICATOR
8 G52 20YL SECURITY INDICATOR CONTROL
9 D2 20WT/BK CCD BUS (-)
10 D1 20VT/BR CCD BUS (+)
and pin6 gets power from fuse #12 in junction box (left side of dash between dash and door)
Now I got a lot to check and a good starting place Lot of info here for anyone who may need it.
Just looked at the 1st pdf that I put in dropbox and it showed the pin out. Maybe one day I learn to read a diagram.
Ok, check for power on terminals 2 and 6 with the key on, and check for ground on terminals 4 and 5
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER-C1
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 B9 20WT BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR
2 F12 20DB/WT FUSED FEED (START/RUN)
3 G11 20BR BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR
4 Z2 20BK/TN GROUND
5 Z1 20BK GROUND
6 M1 20PK FUSED B(+)
7 T18 20LG/OR OVERDRIVE INDICATOR
8 G52 20YL SECURITY INDICATOR CONTROL
9 D2 20WT/BK CCD BUS (-)
10 D1 20VT/BR CCD BUS (+)
and pin6 gets power from fuse #12 in junction box (left side of dash between dash and door)
Now I got a lot to check and a good starting place Lot of info here for anyone who may need it.
Just looked at the 1st pdf that I put in dropbox and it showed the pin out. Maybe one day I learn to read a diagram.
Last edited by KillerKilgore; Jun 25, 2014 at 02:55 AM.
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
Well long story short IT'S FIXED.
If you want to know how keep on readin'
This was done to the black connector or connection 1 which is the one closest to the stereo.
Come to find out the ground for pin 4 was bad so I applied the Presidential Solution ( I did it whether I should or not ) and ran a new ground from the left kick panel.
( Saw a Moderator on this board telling a guy to run a new ground to try to fix his issue for a heater blower or something )
Then I tied the ground for 4 and 5 into it. Test continuity and had a 88 Ohm short between pin 4 and 5 and frame of truck. That is good.
Wished it was was 0-3 but I will settle for 88. Put cluster back in and started and the gauges came to life. then put every thing back together.
Testing -
Pin 6 had 12+ volts from pin to frame regardless of key state.
Pin 2 had 12+ volts from pin to frame when key was in run or start positions.
Pin 5 had 88 Ohm short to frame.
Pin 4 had 1.657 MOhm short to frame.
Voltage from pin 6 to pin 5 was 12+ volts.
Voltage from pin 6 to pin 4 was 9 volts.
Was going to just tie pin 4 and 5 together, then thought it might not be a large enough gauge.
So I got a larger gauge wire (8ga is larger than 10ga) and ran it to the stud just above the E-brake and tied it to pin 4 and 5.
Then tested the continuity and pin 4 and 5 to frame and it was 88 Ohms.
Then tested pin 6 to pin 4 and 5 and had 12+ volts to each.
Good to go.
Side note drove the truck about 140 miles while cluster was kaput.
The odometer on registered about 10 miles due to the intermittent gauge working.
If you want to know how keep on readin'
This was done to the black connector or connection 1 which is the one closest to the stereo.
Come to find out the ground for pin 4 was bad so I applied the Presidential Solution ( I did it whether I should or not ) and ran a new ground from the left kick panel.
( Saw a Moderator on this board telling a guy to run a new ground to try to fix his issue for a heater blower or something )
Then I tied the ground for 4 and 5 into it. Test continuity and had a 88 Ohm short between pin 4 and 5 and frame of truck. That is good.
Wished it was was 0-3 but I will settle for 88. Put cluster back in and started and the gauges came to life. then put every thing back together.
Testing -
Pin 6 had 12+ volts from pin to frame regardless of key state.
Pin 2 had 12+ volts from pin to frame when key was in run or start positions.
Pin 5 had 88 Ohm short to frame.
Pin 4 had 1.657 MOhm short to frame.
Voltage from pin 6 to pin 5 was 12+ volts.
Voltage from pin 6 to pin 4 was 9 volts.
Was going to just tie pin 4 and 5 together, then thought it might not be a large enough gauge.
So I got a larger gauge wire (8ga is larger than 10ga) and ran it to the stud just above the E-brake and tied it to pin 4 and 5.
Then tested the continuity and pin 4 and 5 to frame and it was 88 Ohms.
Then tested pin 6 to pin 4 and 5 and had 12+ volts to each.
Good to go.
Side note drove the truck about 140 miles while cluster was kaput.
The odometer on registered about 10 miles due to the intermittent gauge working.
Last edited by KillerKilgore; Jun 25, 2014 at 05:20 PM.
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
Thanks Brother, Thought I'd share the fix for the next guy that has trouble with the cluster.
You know who the moderator was don't you?
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2407600-post10.html
You know who the moderator was don't you?
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2407600-post10.html
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 425
Likes: 2
From: New york
i have the same issue so ill be checking tomorrow to find out if i have the same issue. aside from that i have a full wiring diagram and connector blow up(aka pin out) and i have a spare pcm and dash so ill get it one way or another lol
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
Sounds like you'r prepared. Keep us updated.
If any questions just ask and someone can help.
I'll look for a thread if you start one or I guess you could use this one. My issue is resolved.
Good Luck
Kilgore
If any questions just ask and someone can help.
I'll look for a thread if you start one or I guess you could use this one. My issue is resolved.
Good Luck
Kilgore
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 207
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
What was the issue?
Kilgore
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 425
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From: New york
good to see people still take time and test before cutting and hacking. A+. 88 ohms is deffently high might want to get some different wire or clean the ground up a bit more to get that down it will cause issues in the long run. the ground that your gauges hooks to is more in the center of the dash board, on the cross brace if you pull the side covers on the ends of the dash you will see there are 2 large bolts in what appers to be a slotted those are actually part of the main ground for the dash radio and blend door on this gen truck. make sure they havent come loss of if anyone has the dash off to do a heater core that they didnt forget to tighten them.