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Leaf Spring Shackles Will not budge. Tried everything

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  #1  
Old 06-24-2014 | 06:19 PM
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udstuen
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Default Leaf Spring Shackles Will not budge. Tried everything

So, I know this is a super common problem.

I have read, and read, and read, and read, and oh yeah...read some more about how to get these things to come off. Everyone makes it seem easier than it really is. So, that being said, if your only input is "search" or the like, please do find another thread to crap on, because I'm at wits end with this truck.

Here's where I am at:

Top nut removed on both sides. Top bolt will not pound out

Heated (torch) top and bottom broken sections including bushings.

Sawzall will not cut through

Attempted to use impact. Impact does nothing

NOTHING is working. I have soaked these pieces in PB blaster for a week and a half and nothing is working.

My sawzall just sits there and moves back and forth, so again, not doing anything. I figured it would cut through it like butter, but of course not. That would be convenient.

This is one of the most frustrating projects I've done on a vehicle, and I haven't made any progress but burn some bushings a bit and remove two bolts.

Shops locally want $160-$175 for labor since I already have the new shackles, which is money I simply do not have.

If anyone knows ANYTHING that finally worked for them, please help.
 
  #2  
Old 06-24-2014 | 07:25 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

I just went through this a few months back.

The sawzall is it. Put it between the shackle and the spring. You're just going to have to cut it off. The nuts/bolts/bushings will all be junk. You aren't going to get it out with an impact. The bolt is rust welded into the bushing.

What year? Is it a 4x4?
 
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Old 06-24-2014 | 10:47 PM
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Thanks Dan.

I kept using my sawzall and burned through about five blades. I was able to get the sleeve and bolt out on the leaf section of the passenger side. Bits of the bushing are still in there, but I can burn those out later. I'm more concerned about getting this project done.

I have about 14 hours into this project and all that has been done is essentially that leaf sleeve/bolt and nut. The upper part of the shackle is seemingly impossible to cut through, and the T55 head is basically stripped.

There's no way around it, but yes, everything needs to be cut out. That's what I'm trying to get at, but nothing is working. I was surprised when I was able to remove the leaf sleeve.

I may just have to remove the other leaf sleeve and bolt and then burn out those bushings and then see if a shop will cut me a break to remove the upper section of the shackle.

Any recommendations on what type of blade to use for the sawzall?

I was just using Irwin "Thick Metal" blades from the auto parts store. Burned through a pack of five plus what was already on the saw when I pulled it out of my basement.

I feel like there has to be SOME blade out there that will cut right through this.

I worked today on it from 1 until 9PM. That was my day off and I got essentially nothing done to show for it.
 
  #4  
Old 06-24-2014 | 11:03 PM
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I was using Milwaukee blades. I think it was 18 tpi.

I agree, the job sucked. Worse for me, I had to pull the hitch off the truck because it blocks access to the bolts on a 4x4.

Try some different brands of blades, different teeth, until you find one that works. Don't even worry about the head being stripped as you'll be cutting it off anyways.
 
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Old 06-25-2014 | 08:54 AM
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+1 for the Milwaukee Torch blades
 
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Old 06-25-2014 | 10:04 AM
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Big jack hammer...... just kidding
 
  #7  
Old 06-25-2014 | 10:30 AM
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A better tool to cut metal is a cut off wheel on a small grinder like the picutre. Harbor Freight around $20.
 
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Old 06-26-2014 | 01:30 PM
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Yep, I have a cheap $24 Harbor Freight grinder too. On thicker metal it's way faster than a sawzall with any blade. If you want to use your sawzall then I like the Milwaukee blades as well. I've also had good luck with DeWalt. I've never used the Irwin blades you're talking about so I can't really compare.


For the grinder, I like the DeWalt cut off wheels, they don't chip away and wear down as bad as the Harbor Freight wheels do. The HF grinder is good, but go get yourself a name brand cut off wheel or 2 to put on it. The thinner ones will cut faster.

I had a similar issue with the sway bar on my YJ. I spent 45 minutes working on it with a sawzall and gave up. I came back to it later and the grinder went through it in less than a minute.
 

Last edited by TheNewbie; 06-26-2014 at 03:09 PM.



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