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Brake Line Fittings (to junction block)

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  #11  
Old 08-07-2014, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Patrick Dennis
...(exciting when this blew under a panic stop!). ...
COPY THAT especially when the boss man is in the passenger seat.

He was pumpin' the brakes harder and faster than I was.
 
  #12  
Old 08-07-2014, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Patrick Dennis
Just replaced every hard brake tube on my "97 - due to a rust-through on the rear (exciting when this blew under a panic stop!). The lines are 3/16, the fittings at the calipers are M10X1.0, the fittings at the junction block are M12X1.0. There were 2 fittings (I think at the RWAL control unit) that are M11X1.5.
M10X1.0 and M12X1.0 are available in bulk packs for 3/16" lines. I was able to chase (clean/recut) the threads on the M12s. I used new M10X1.0. Additionally I used a plastic coated new line material called Poly Armor, as I plan on keeping the truck.
also, many of the fittings but not all, i believe, have unthreaded leads.
 
  #13  
Old 08-07-2014, 10:23 AM
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Thanks Patrick, that is extremely helpful.

And yes Magnet you're right, the threads stop about 3/4 way from the top of the head.
 
  #14  
Old 08-07-2014, 10:29 AM
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I'm not quite sure what you mean about "unthreaded leads". Do you mean that the fittings do not have a lead-in to the threaded body, or the fittings are totally unthreaded? All of the fittings on my '97 were threaded with one of the 3 types in my previous message - however they needed to be aligned exactly to engage and not cross-thread.
 
  #15  
Old 12-31-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by magnethead
I believe it is 3/16 unless yours is different, that's what I observe, roughly 4.5mm.

I say that and I literally have a junkyard line on the floor next to me. I was just going to replace it with 3/16. The main thing is re-using the original fittings because they have the unthreaded portion.

I was going to re-flare my junkyard lines for the line-locks, but decide I'd be better off getting new lines, cutting, re-using old fittings, and go from there.


It's a 15/32 nut head, I checked it with my micrometer, I was trying to figure that out also until I got tired of trying different size wrenches
 
  #16  
Old 01-15-2020, 06:23 PM
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Default Junction box nightmare

[QUOTE=sxrsil3nt;3183528]So today was a nightmare replacing my calipers, brake hoses, pads and rotors.

Rust made everything so much fun but now I'm stuck. The truck is back together but it's leaking fluid from the brake line that runs from the driver side brake hose to the junction block directly below the master cylinder (little cube that rests on the frame).

I know that it's a 3/16 fitting that runs to the brake house, but the fititg for the junction block is different.

I tried salvaging the existing fitting and putting it on a new piece of line and flaring it, but it still leaks.

To make matters worse, I called the dealer as I was ready just to buy the whole line (which is only $22 so its not bad), it turns out their is no warehouse/dealer in Canada that has the line I need.

So that leaves me alone to buy a new line and fitting and flare it myself and hope it doesn't leak.

SO PLEASE, if anyone has replaced the brake lines that run into the junction block please share what size the fitting is, I brought the old one to the parts store and the 3/16 is too small, 1/4 looks slightly too small, and a 5/16 is too big.

Thank you.

For anyone wondering, this is the little block I'm talking about on the driver side frame rail

i'm about to throw in towel,im going to use my old junction fittings,i messed up the brake cylinder fittings,so bought new line but same fitings on each end. My qustion is,should i use my ole line which is already bent( metal ) or new copper line,2005 Dodge Dakota,if i can use old i can save copper for another task
 
  #17  
Old 01-18-2020, 10:06 PM
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Not sure if you have this fixed yet. I had to buy the nuts in a package and flare the line for the same thing. They are not in front of me but I believe what you need is a M 12-1.0 thread nut on that end, Also if I am right it should take a 14 mm wrench. The smaller one is a m 10 -1.0 Not sure if they are the same or not but mine is a 2001
 
  #18  
Old 05-27-2020, 10:01 PM
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I'm also running into this issue. The fitting to the junction on the rear axle seems to be M11-1.5.

You can still buy the premade fitting/line assembly that connects from the rear junction to the driver side flex hose. The line from the junction box to the right caliper (was a combined hard line + flex hose) is discontinued. They don't seem to sell the fitting separately. As you can see in the attached picture, the gray fitting (that attaches to the junction) does NOT have the unthreaded portion as it an inverted flare not bubble flare.





I went to O'Reilly's, NAPA, Advance, AutoZone, and the dealer, and none of them had a fitting or knew what the fitting was. I'm tempted to just buy another left line assembly, cut the fittings off, and make a new line for the right side.

I should also note that I have an 2003 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with only rear wheel abs.
 
  #19  
Old 05-28-2020, 02:10 PM
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