So looking at the "fluid capacities" topic, I see that it says to add friction modifier to the tranny, but doesn't mention it for the differential. Does that mean the differential doesn't need it? I also didn't add any when I changed tranny oil last week. Seems to shift fine, should I add some friction modifier to the transmission?

 

Damn! lol

LOL. Well supposedly, it's a synthetic blend. Found out after that Walmart got fined for not having proper viscosity in their gear oil. I believe they are on top of their game now. Anyway, half of it is Mobil 1 full syn.

I believe it's 4 Oz., but why don't you just use fluid that already has friction modifier included? Mobil one does and it seems most do. Check your bottles.

Again, the Diff needs it if you have LSD and you're not using fluid that already includes it.

Here is the info for MT, from the link that Sxrsil3nt provided earlier.

Manual Transmission

NV3500 : 4.2 Pints (2.1 Qts)
AX15 : 6.6 Pints (3.3 Qts.)
NV1500HD : 4.7 Pints (2.35 Qts)*
*Include .22 Pints for Friction Modifier

 

There is no requirement for "Friction Modifier" for the transmission. You only need it for the clutches in the LSD - 5 ounces per the 2000 FSM.

Regarding the transmission fluid for the NV1500 - Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant, P/N 4761526

 

I never added the friction modifier in my rear end, being the valovline synth. supposedly has it already in it.

And i would still never use Walmart fluid.. no matter if i knew it was from the same plant or not.. I'd rather pay alittle extra for a name brand when it comes that .

 

The reason why I used Walmart fluid, was not for the price. I had a hard time finding fluid that didn't include the friction additive, and the Supertech didn't. I don't have LSD. I ended up with 1/2 supertech and 1/2 mobil one. Pretty sure it will be fine.

 

A few years ago you could buy Valvoline 75W90 without the LSD additive. That was what I always used in my differential. I changed it a few times and went to buy it again when the time came for the next fluid change. I could not find the plain 75W90 anywhere, all I could find was Valvoline 75W90 with the LSD additive already in it. I did some research and found that Valvoline had stopped making plain conventional gear oil, and that it is OK to use gear oil with the additive in a non-LSD, it will work fine and not cause any problems. You just can't do it the other way around with no additive in an LSD. I still use Valvoline in mine, 75W90 with the additive and have not had any trouble with it. It always takes exactly 2 quarts for the level to be just below the fill hole but my truck has the 8" rear end.

I don't use any kind of synthetic lubes in my truck other than semi synthetic wheel bearing grease. I tried Kendall GT-1 synthetic blend oil once and did not like how my 3.9 sounded, seemed to be a lot more noise after about 2000 miles on the GT-1 so I switched back to conventional and the sound of my engine went back to normal. I guess I am old school and set in my ways and just prefer conventional. That being said, my wife's new Nissan Rogue was built with synthetic 0W20 oil so it gets Mobil 1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy. I have changed it only once so far but the Mobil 1 is a good oil. Super Tech oil is OK, some say it is a great oil, it is made by either Warren or Mobil depending on the area of the country where you live. Down here it's Warren. I don't know about the ST gear lube though, I just get the Valvoline at Auto Zone, about $7.00 per quart. I would rather just use name brand gear oil and also use the Permatex green label RTV that is specifically made to be used with gear oil. Auto Zone sells that too and one tube will do my differential twice with a little left over.

I use Super Tech 30W engine oil in my lawn mower but I don't know about using ST in my Dakota. Right now it is common knowledge ST is made by either Warren or Mobil but with Walmart you never know. Walmart uses whichever supplier gives them the lowest price, they can and will change suppliers at any time and you just don't know what is really in the bottle. I prefer to use brand name engine oil. I like either Quaker State or Peak conventional, both have good amounts of Zinc and Molybendum which are great anti-wear agents. Peak and QS also each have a good shot of Boron which is very good for keeping engine seals in good condition. My engine runs very smooth and quiet on either Peak or QS and one or the other is usually on sale somewhere. Walmart will usually have QS at a decent price too.

Jimmy

 

Just out of curiosity, what did you base that assessment on? Oil analysis? Wear patterns? Or did you just not like the color, smell, taste, etc.?

 

I started out using conventional but am now running full syn Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. The truck is running superbly, especially since I resolved the idle problem with a new TPS. My lawnmower is 1994 vintage and loves the used synthetics that comes from my cars. I've run ST full synthetic in my honda with no issues, although I've never done a UOA at the end. I think that all in all, most modern oils are decent and have more in common than differences. People tend to get caught up in the marketing wars and hype, but as long as you change the oil before it loses viscosity, I don't think brand will make a big difference. I've been around long enough to see just about every oil maker... including QS, Mobil 1, Pennzoil, etc., have their bad periods and lose/gain back trust.

 

So here's the fluid I bought. This is also what I re-filled my transmission with. Based on the fact that it says "Limited Slip" right on the bottle, I'm guessing it already has friction modifier, but I'm not certain. Just in case, I got a 7 oz tube of friction modifier (only size they sold). Is the oil already pre-mixed, or do I need to mix in friction modifier?

Here's the gear oil.


Here's the friction modifier.

 

If you have an NV3500 transmission, that is the wrong oil.