It's time to upgrade from my 94 Explorer Sport. I'm looking at a 2nd gen Dakota Quad Cab 4x4. From looking around my area (Colorado Springs), it looks as though I can expect to pay anywhere from $3500 to $6000 with the price determining factors primarily being mileage and engine.

My primary concern when buying a used vehicle is reliability, and maintenance cost. Which engine is providing the best longevity? From what I've read, the 5.9L engine has a longer history than the 4.7L. I do a lot of my own mechanical work. Is one easier to work on than the other? Is the fuel economy difference between the 2 significant? What about the transmission/drive train (btw, only looking at automatics - wife's orders)? Are there any common problems in the 2nd gens I should look out for?

Thanks

 

There are a million threads regarding the common problems to look out for and they consist of ball joints, stripped calliper threads, steering shaft etc.

In terms of the motors, the 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 are all really well built engines and long lasting. A common problem for all is the failure of the plenum gasket between the heads and the intake.

The 3.7 and 4.7 are also good motors but I believe the head gaskets are a problem, someone with a 4.7 could chime in.

In terms of the tranny's you'll either get a 42RE, 545RFE or possibly a 44RE. They are all OK if properly maintained.

The 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 are all pretty easy to work on. Can't speak for the 3.7 or 4.7.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply. I've been reading through some of the forums, though haven't yet identified patterns. I would like to hear from someone with a 4.7.

Thanks again for the info.

 

the 5.9 is the old mopar 360 block, 5.2 is the 318. Pretty much anything in the bottom end can swap from a 1960's 318/360 into a 1990's 5.9/5.2. The heads/top end are different, but crank, rods, pistons all pretty much the same. In other words, parts are easy to get. The 3.9 is the 2.5/318 with 2 holes sawed off. 3.9 gets the 42RE (old mopar TF 918), 318/5.2 has 44RE, 360/5.9 gets 46RE (TF 727). The 42 and 44 IIRC are the same case but the 42 has a smaller drum and fewer clutches to shave rotating weight. While 918/42RE/44RE parts are not series interchangeable nor are 727/46RE, they are essentially just those old transmissions, revamped, and they stick mopar's version of a gearvendor's overdrive on the end- it can even be removed separately without dropping the pan or the trans itself.

The 4.7/3.7 is a newer concoction with overhead cams, intimidating to look at but supposedly not so bad to deal with if you mark everything. Crankshaft position sensor, when it goes out, is a no-win situation. Two generations of the 4.7 that are electronically incompatible on the tone rings, can and does cause grief down the road. Both use the 545RFE which is also used behind the hemi motors. Not sure if they use a smaller drum and fewer clutches or not for the smaller motors. it's all electronic and catostrophic failure isn't as likely as the old hydraulic slushboxes, but it still has to be maintained.

 

The 4.7 is a good motor. The problem is that it doesn't like being neglected. If you don't change the oil you may have problems. Like ANY aluminum head engine it doesn't like to overheat either. I'm at 140k, no problems whatsoever.

It's COP. No plugs, points, or wires to deal with. Maintenance is SIMPLE.

With the 4.7 you'd get the 45RFE or the 545RFE (later models). It's electronically shifted.

None of the engines can beat the 5.9 for power. With the 4.7 you'd at least be able to pass a few gas stations though. It should do 17-18 mpg on the highway. The 4.7 does like to rev I might add.

One thing to be aware of, the Dakota is a heavy truck and the quad cab more so.

The timing set on the 4.7 is rated at 250k miles.

A common problem on the 4.7 is the head gaskets if it's overheated. The 5.9 does have more "options" available for builds. Common problems on the 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 engines are the plenum plate.

Other problems with the Dakota include the ball joints, there was recall. Clutch pack retainer clips (on the LSD) failing that can take out the ring/pinion or spider gears. '01 and up seem to have transfer case control problems - electronic shift, not an issue on the older models.

Coming from Ford you might be surprised to find that the front ends do not use locking hubs, there is NO way to unlock the hubs - at all. By design the entire front end rotates whenever you move. All you can do is engage/disengage 4wd. Not all Dakota's are full time 4wd either - a surprise to many for some reason.

Most of the problems you'll deal with are due to age. Check the front propeller shaft for play. There is a CV joint in it that wears out. Heater cores can leak and you're pulling the dash to replace it.

Hope it helps.

 

Magnethead, thanks for the detailed technical overview. Unfortunately, a lot of it was over my head. Still, I think I got the gist of it.

Dan, what did you mean by COP? I often lock my hubs in the winter around here and then switch to 4x4 when road conditions demand it. Having always locked hubs I would assume prevent problems with them in extreme off-road conditions. Does it cause additional problems with wear in the front end?

Thanks for the information.

 

COP = coil on plug = 8 coils and I think 16 plugs as I recall? Dan can correct me. I know the hemi uses an 8/16 config, forget if the 4.7 does or not.

Some dak's are part time 4WD and some are full time AWD/part time 4WD. Difference being on the AWD models there's a differential in the transfercase that differentiates in AWD and locks up in 4WD. IMO (I don't have 4x4) no added wear.

The balljoints are the main thing. And bushings of course. When you look at trucks, check how the ball joints are mounted. Factory are rivetted, replacements are bolted in (you drill or chisel the rivet off to replace).


Let me put it this way- if you get a dak with a 3.9/5.2/5.9, it's like getting a ranger with a 351W and C6 or the 289 and C4. If you get a dak with a 3.7/4.7, it's like getting a ranger with the Triton 4.6 motor and the newfangled transmission electronics that go with it. Same body, but 30-40 year old running gear and 10 year old running gear and more electronics.

 

Thanks again,

I found this image online: http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...d/P1020995.jpg

Is this what I should look for to determine if factory ball joints are installed?

 

There's only 8 plugs in a 2nd gen Dakota. Later models do have 2 plugs per cylinder.

It's just that the parts, front differential and propeller shaft are always moving. More of a MPG thing than anything else. There is a lot less to go wrong. No locking hubs to deal with.

On the ball joints, the uppers are riveted in OEM, as in that picture. If they've been replaced they are bolted in.

The lowers are pressed on a 4x4. Dodge peens the top edge over OEM. If you see a snap ring it's been done.

A dealer can run the VIN and tell you if the ball joint recall was done. It's just the uppers.

 

I got a high-mileage 4.7, 2WD. Not disappointed at all. The 4.7 has been very reliable. Decent power and a bit better gas mileage. Don't get any engine smaller than a 4.7, you'll be lacking in power and they don't have better mileage.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota/364503-1st-post-just-picked-up-a-250k-dakota.html