Brake line rust through... Replace entire line?
#13
so I had the exact same problem cost about $50 to fix.
Goto Autozone/pepboys/Napa and get 25' spool coated break line, cut off an old piece and tell them to match the size.
rent or buy a double flair tool, whatch a lot of youtube videos on how to make those flairs.
just shove/push the brake line above the tank , then behind the transfer case brace along the frame then up the fire wall, i just left the old break line in place and zip-tied it to the old line. before you put the ends on slide a PVC or plastic tube around the break line above the tank to protect it from rubbing on the bottom of the bed.
you only need 15 feet, but its cheaper by the coil and it took 2 or 3 try's to get the end right, twice it looked good but it leaked and I had to redo it.
My dealer wanted $750 for the rear and $400 for the front. Rear included draing the tank.
If you have a little more money Napa sells premade lines with the correct old ford/dakota ends. 2-4-6-8 foot lengths just run a string to find out how many feet.
Goto Autozone/pepboys/Napa and get 25' spool coated break line, cut off an old piece and tell them to match the size.
rent or buy a double flair tool, whatch a lot of youtube videos on how to make those flairs.
just shove/push the brake line above the tank , then behind the transfer case brace along the frame then up the fire wall, i just left the old break line in place and zip-tied it to the old line. before you put the ends on slide a PVC or plastic tube around the break line above the tank to protect it from rubbing on the bottom of the bed.
you only need 15 feet, but its cheaper by the coil and it took 2 or 3 try's to get the end right, twice it looked good but it leaked and I had to redo it.
My dealer wanted $750 for the rear and $400 for the front. Rear included draing the tank.
If you have a little more money Napa sells premade lines with the correct old ford/dakota ends. 2-4-6-8 foot lengths just run a string to find out how many feet.
#14
#15
I ran into the same problem. I did it myself for around 80.00 but it wasnt as simple as it should of been. I replaced the rear line just by feeding it down the frame(didnt drop the tank or the bed) After I did all that the next connection starting leaking and this happened 3 or 4 times and I ended up doing all new steel lines and 1 rubber line down to the wheel. 300 isnt a great deal but to not have to deal with laying on your back for an hr or 2 is not that bad.
#16
Man that sucks. I hate when stuff like that happens. I know I didn't get much of a good deal, but I really had no choice. Kinda sucks, but it is what it is. I just need the Dodge to last me til I can get it back home and get my diesel down here! I finally finished it, so now I'll work on getting the Dakota nice again because I don't think I want to get rid of it.
#17
#18
Yeah, that's what I was leaning toward. I was looking at it this morning, and it looks like the front of the line, up by the proportioning valve is gonna be a pain to get to.
Does anyone know what size that line is? I'm still deciding if I'm going to do it myself, it's currently at the local shop getting an estimate... I have a feeling they are going to want way too much though.
Does anyone know what size that line is? I'm still deciding if I'm going to do it myself, it's currently at the local shop getting an estimate... I have a feeling they are going to want way too much though.
The hardest part for me was getting the connections in the block at the wheel. Make sure you have the right connectors. Most auto parts stores have adapters and the knowledgeable sales guys will know what you need.
I have done this on an old Voyager and my Dakota. In fact, I've replaced every brake line on both.