I have a 99 dakota 3.9 manual 5 speed and lately it's been getting increasingly harder to shift between gears. Worse when warmed up. I checked the fluid and it's up to level. There's 200k on stock clutch and trans.

Thanks in advance

 

It could be the trans is ready for new syncros/complete overhaul or the clutch hydraulics are worn out.

How to be sure what it is I cant say but with 200k on it it could be both

I don't know how to test the hydraulic clutch assembly?

 

easy way to tell apart- start double-clutching when you shift. IF it gets easier, your synchros are shot. If it's the same, clutch hydaulics are shot.

 

Okay I'll try this weekend when I drive it. I got a new motor coming soon so it will get new clutch when I replace that but I'm gonna drive this motor until it completely dies . In the meantime I don't want to burn a tranny up. Any not to feel like a noob but the synchro is in with the clutch correct? This will be my first manual trans seperations. All the other vehicles I've done were autos

And Cause it's a hydraulic clutch , changing the tranny fluid won't make a difference ... correct?

 

No the syncros are inside the trans that's why I said you will need to overhaul the trans not a cheap job some want around $2.500 or more.

The second Q is yes changing the trans fluid has nothing to do with the clutch hydraulics.

I'm going to say its more than likely worn syncros not the clutch hydraulics.

If you pull the engine a new clutch is always needed along with throughout bearing and pilot bushing/bearing... unless these were replaced recently like say the last 4 or 5 years then you could just get away with not replacing them.


But still advisable

 

Is it possible to be done yourself or must it be taken somewhere for synchros

 

I'm sure it can be DIY but you have to know how to take the transmission apart. The synchros are attached to the gears themselves.

 

 

It's either the synchronizers, or your clutch master and/or slave cylinder. For your sake hope it is the latter. I just replaced my cylinders. Cost me about $100 for a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and reservoir, pre-filled and bench bled to just bolt on. What happens is those cylinders start to leak internally, so you won't lose fluid, but they will not completely disengage the clutch pad from the flywheel, so while it may stop the vehicle from moving, there's still a small amount of friction and force being applied which makes it hard to get into gear, especially 1st gear as the condition worsens. Eventually mine got to the point that if I put mine in 1st gear, depressed the clutch, and started the engine, the truck would "creep" forward slowly. While it was in gear it would pull just fine, no slipping or anything, so I knew the clutch disc and pressure plate were fine, so I put in the master/slave cylinder kit and that solved the problem.

If you decide to try replacing the cylinders, I highly recommend just getting the kit with both cylinders and a reservoir pre-filled and pre-bled. I bought separate pieces and had a bitch of a time getting my old lines to fit and even when I did I couldn't get the things bled properly, so I just returned them and got the "ready to bolt on" kit.

 

To be honest, the absolute hardest part of replacing the master/slave cylinder was the master cylinder, because you have to loosen the bolts for your brake booster, which are inside the cab behind the pedals, disconnect the pedals, and pull the brake booster forward enough to wiggle the old master cylinder out. To make things easier since you're replacing it you can just grab the push rod on the old master cylinder with a pair of pliers and just rip it out of its little pocket thing after you disconnect it from the clutch pedal.