I tried both methods. I dropped the housing in (with the bolts) had a hard time lining up the holes w/o knocking the bolts out of the housing. Repeatedly.........like (20) times! ARRGH !!

I used a magnet (end of expandable type), the magnet kept getting drawn (attached) to the metal thermostat housing knocking it off course. PITA.....

I did see in one YT video someone using LONG (6-8") needle nose type pliers. I'll go buy a pair "if/when" I decide to tackle this job again.

I think one big hindrance for me was the top hose was still attached to the housing as I was working on this. The hose was vulcanized (melted together) to the metal thermostat housing. Impossible to remove unless it was cut off. The hose was in too good of shape to destroy. However, it held the housing so I was unable to rotate it easily to align the housing over the holes. Told ya it was a PITA! LOL!

Now, where's that cardboard ? LOL!

 

oh yea, 100 times easier with hose off.

Drop the housing and bolts together with a socket and extensions on one bolt. Drop it down, get one bolt started, then get the other started.

 

I got another good tip from someone.

They said fill the socket with grease to keep the bolt from falling out while lowering it back in place.

Now I need to decide if it's worth destroying a perfectly good radiator hose and buying a new one for $15. If this was my DD, there would be no question whether to do it or not.
In the meantime, I found a nice piece of cardboard. Didn't block it off completely though.

 

I was watching my digital dash OBDII scanner during yesterday morning's commute. 40 degrees out and driving 45-55 MPH, started at 45, went up to 181, fell back to 172, up to 183, down to 174, up to 181, down to 172, up to 183, down to 174, and was at 178 when I parked- the fluctuations coming from the 180 thermostat opening and closing.

 

Ok. Update time.

Yesterday, I changed out the thermostat (for the 2nd time). 195 degree one.

I pre-tested the new thermostat (boiling pan of water and thermometer). It opened when it should have.

The truck STILL is running cold IMHO. It appears to be a bit warmer (per the gauge), but still not up to par. Admittedly, I did not drive it more than 15 miles yesterday, but that should have been enough to get it warmed up.

This is with a big piece of cardboard blocking the front of the radiator as well.

The truck is running decent otherwise ?

How do I get this truck to run hotter ???

 

One thing I did notice when I was working on it yesterday is the fan clutch has a wobble at the shaft. It wobbles when I grab the fan (not running! LOL!) but has no noticeable wobble while idling.

The fan does have a fair amount resistance when I try to spin it.

At this point I'm wondering if the fan clutch is binding/locking up causing the fan to spin when it should not be spinning. I've read a binding fan CAN cause over-cooling.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/cooling_fan_clutch.htm

I'm gonna go ahead and replace the fan clutch and see what happens.

 

As a test, just take the clutch fan off. 12" crescent wrench and lefty loosey. Go for a drive with the cardboard removed. In the city it might get on the warmish side, but on the highway it should hang out in the right place. But running passively cooled, you'll need to watch the gauge if you get stuck in traffic- you're relying on outside moving air to cool the radiator.

When my E-fan failed and I didn't realize it, I got up to 245 degrees in traffic, luckily close to school. I parked it illegially, left the hood partially up, and called campus police to let them know on my way to class. Didn't hurt anything that i know of.

 

I'll try that.

I just bought a New "Open Box" fan clutch off Amazon for $22 SHIPPED!

 

Ok update time.

I swapped out the fan clutch the other day and went for a (20) mile drive.

The engine is STILL running cool. There was a small (maybe) increase (per eyeballing the gauge), but nothing like I was hoping.

At this point, I can only assume the Coolant Sending unit is bad as well as the Heater core plugged up.

I bought a new Sending unit and intend on back flushing the heater core. Now just need the TIME to do the work! LOL!

Why else would my engine show it's running cool and I'm not get Hot air (only warm air) out of the heater core ??

 

Buddy, you've pretty much ran the gammut of idea that I have. You're off in uncharted territory.