Engine Running COLD..... WHY ?
Water pressure on the outside faucets is usually unregulated or at a much higher pressure, than inside the house.
My exterior faucets are supplied through the basement, and the supply line has a regulator on it where it comes into the basement from the street. So I should be good. If I ever get around to it.
100 psi out the hose for a few seconds. Didn't have a good seal and my (2) gallon tank really wasn't up to the task. Had to stop and wait 5 minutes to let it recharge. Thinking about buying a bigger tank/compressor.
I usually don't say such things but.....................................
I don't think you have a clue what you are talking about your posts are bizarre at best I scratch my head every time you post I'm out of here.
I don't think you have a clue what you are talking about your posts are bizarre at best I scratch my head every time you post I'm out of here.
Don't complicate things. Pull off the two hoses that go into the firewall, or pull the other end of those same hoses. Hold a hose nozzle up to heater core tubes (or the hoses) and apply very low water pressure. Do it both ways (flush and back flush). If water flows easily, you don't have a clog and you don't need higher pressure. Increase pressure slowly if you need to. You can use air to blow out the water when you're done.
I have a 97 with a little over 200000 (5.2 engine). ,Every 2 years for the last 10 years or so, I have backed flushed the heater core, have added one connection to the return line to make it easier. That has helped quite a bit in my ability to heat the cab. Just did it again about 2 weeks ago. Yes, I too have trouble getting heat out of the engine. In the winter, never goes above the first mark. Will try the carboard idea.










