Is the fuel rail threads 5/16 male quick-disco and the fuel pump 3/8 male quick-disco?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644110/overview/ 5/16 QD to 6AN

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644120/overview/ 3/8 QD to 6AN

You know, in case I wanted to replace the stock fuel line with SS hose and AN fittings....for some "absurd" reason.

Also, most inline EFI fuel pumps are 80 GPM / 45PSI. That sound right for a stock config?

 

So this is my to-do list for maybe late next year into 2016 if/when/after I get an econo-car for a DD.

Jaz Pro-Street Fuel Cell 253-016-01, 16 gallon, 25" x 17" x 10", $233 (mounted in place of spare tire)
Magnafuel ProStar EFI 525 Rebuildable Inline Fuel pump, 45 PSI, $697
Magnafuel 74 micron fuel filter $89
Russel AN-quick Disconnect Adapter, $15

Fuel: $1,034 + hose

OBX Headers, $300
(use stock mini-cat and O2 assembly)
Custom true 2" dual exhaust with H-pipe: $400 (Note smaller size to retain some backpressure)
Magnaflow 18144 2" x 26" glasspack mufflers: $80
Exhaust bending to form over frame rails: $200
Flat exhaust tips: $100

Exhaust: $1,080

Design tilt bed system to allow easy access to chassis: $???

Universal steel battery tray: $40 (I already have one)
Mount both battery trays to the inside of the frame rails
20 feet #0 gauge wire: $100 (parallel both batteries, connect to the PDC under hood)

Electrical: $140

Sheet Metal intake manifold with 4bbl pattern, 4bbl to 2bbl adapter for stock TB: $800
KillerRons Flying Toilet Methanol Injection System: $1,600
MSD Crank Trigger + machining: $450

Fuel/Ignition: $2,850

After all said and done (probably $6500-7000 in work), I'd have a still-street-legal truck with custom designed free-flow exhaust, battery moved out of the engine compartment with another to help with load sharing, the ability to drive on the street on pump gas using the factory fuel injection, or switch throttle bodies and race on methanol (which BTW won't really harm the catalytic convertors), and be completely different from most anything out there.

 

Damn. This sounds like it would be one fast V6 dakota.

 

I don't have engine work accounted for yet. Headwork would probably be 800 or so, plus Keith Black ICON forged 4.9cc dome pistons ($627). The 4.9 dome with a 30 gasket and 60cc heads at 1.81 compression height should yield about a 10.2:1 CR- high enough to make gain, but low enough to not kill the stock split-pin crank or stock rods or throw off the PCM, and right on the line of being able to run 93 octane.

That said, I only see 2 head gasket offerings by fel-pro, 9910PT (.048 thick) and 518SD (.049 thick), with the 518's being the "severe duty" piece. With those HG numbers, would yield about 9.71:1 compression....stock is 9.1:1, so not much of a gain alone. I'm sure headwork could be done to get some back, I'm not so sure about decking the block (though it could be done).

 

I hope it all works out for you.

 

everything takes money. The split-pin crank is the limiting factor. After re-running numbers that I editted above, I'd hate to spend the extra money, but the only option to get to the target 10.2-10.5 CR would be milling the heads and/or decking the block.

10.5:1 is the furthest I'd want to go. The heads are known good to 32 degrees, and running methanol, it'd make for a safe but potent combination. Take 10 degrees out on 93 pump gas and be good on the street.

 

Sounds awesome. I definitely love the idea of high performance V6.

 

For those curious:

I just pulled the NHRA Stock Eliminator paperwork. 2001 V6 club-cab 130" WB class index is 21.40 pounds per HP @ 3,852 production curb weight pounds. I'd be eligible for IHRA IT/S (Stock Truck, 20.00 cap) and NHRA U/SA (20.00 cap). In other words, minimum race weight would be 3500 pounds (175 HP * 20 LB per HP). The current U/SA class index is 9.30 1/8 mile and 14.85 1/4 mile. But to be competitive in Stock Eliminator, you need to be able to run at least 1 second under your 1/4 index, seeing as the index is the slowest you can dial-in, and same-class entries are ran heads-up.

This basically means I need to be able to run ~8.90 / 13.80 or so, using stock bore/stroke, stock heads and intake (no porting/machining), stock 4-speed automatic transmission, so-on down the line. Also, maximum tire width is 9 inches. I'm not even sure if a high compression ratio is legal in stock.

I haven't found anything concrete on roll cages. I think they're required at 13.49, so 13.80 may be OK in stock form?

I think i crossed the scales at 4200 pounds, so I could lose 650 and still be plenty safe. The magic rule for slow cars is 100 pounds = 1 tenth, so that's roughly half a second in weight. Best run on the AT's is 10.87 1/8 mile, i think the slicks are worth 0.350 and a 8.5" radial would be worth .500 or so, putting me around a 9.87-10.02 1/8 mile. Need to lose about a full second more off that. Rough calculator says need to bump output to about 265 HP to run the number, a 90 HP gain over stock. If I can get compression to ~10.2:1-10.5:1, might be worth 10-15 HP. Consider the gear/slick size combination I run frees up a little. Say I've bumped the 175 to around 185 or so, accounting for 160,000 mile wear losses. If I can remove those losses and get to ~195, then add 10 or so from compression, the jump from 205 to 265 is a little easier.