On my 1997 Dakota SLT, the power windows do not work. I replaced the CB on the fuse panel, no soap. I used a test light to check voltage to the switches (according to my wiring diagram, it's the tan wire that supplies voltage), none. I removed the CB and checked voltage at the fuse panel. There is juice there so it seems to me something is open between the fuse panel and the switch. Is my thinking flawed? Any other ideas?

 

With the circuit breaker in place check for voltage on both terminals? With it removed one side would be hot (feed).

Can you post your schematic? I don't have one for a '97 but my '00 shows a connector between the CB and the switches - near the left front door hinge.

Do you have the LED's in the door lock switches? They're fed off the same breaker in '00.

 

I don't have access to the terminals with the CB installed but with it removed, one side is hot. My diagram shows two connectors? One at the door hinge and one at the switch cluster I'm thinking
I have yet to check the voltage at the door hinge connector. I assume if there is voltage up to that point, then the interruption is in the door wiring harness. Does that sound right?

 

The harness to the door may have broken where it flexes when you open the door.

If you can find C228, probably under the drivers kick panel and check for voltage on the tan wire that should confirm it.

 

I will check in the morning and let you know my findings. Thanks!

 

Ok... I removed the driver side door and checked voltage at the door hinge. Voltage is present. I checked continuity between the connector on the door and the plug at the switch cluster, no breaks. This makes no sense to me. Unless the two connectors aren't making contact when I plug them together, right?

 

What were you using for ground when you used your test light on the switches?

If you have power to the connector near the hinge and continuity to the door switch you should have power at the switch - unless there is a bad connection or you may have an intermittent break in the wires.

 

I used the door hinge for a ground. It's a good ground, I verified this by testing fuses. What I plan to do is eliminate the plugs, adding a few inches of wire and slice the ends. That way theres no doubt about any breaks at the connectors where I think my problem lies.

 

This might be a stupid question, but did you try the motors directly to see if they work at all? It seems like everything you are checking is fine which leads me to bad motors. And/or check for voltage at the motors when you hit the switches. I never had a door panel off so I don't know the subtleties of the job but it seems pretty straightforward. Unplug the harness at the motor and hit the switch.

 

Whew! I'm making progress. I eliminated the connector plug at the door hinge and hard wired the windows and they work! However, the power locks do not. The passenger side will unlock but not lock. The driver side will do neither. I can hear the actuator on both doors in one direction but not the other.
As for the anti-theft being triggered, I have a locksmith coming today to program the keyless entry remotes the I bought online. Hopefully the CTM will see the remotes and disengage it so I can at least run the truck till I get the locks figured out.