03 Dodge Dakota
#1
04-17-2015, 11:09 AM
Join Date: Apr 2015
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03 Dodge Dakota
Hi, I'm looking at buying a 03 Dakota
sport, quad cab, automatic, 4.7, 4x4, 83k
miles. I've heard good and bad about thiS
engine. I think this truck has had
Atleast "some" regular oil changes but idk
if it has been done every 3k miles. Any
advice or suggestions on what to look for
when examining this truck is appreciated!
Thanks!
sport, quad cab, automatic, 4.7, 4x4, 83k
miles. I've heard good and bad about thiS
engine. I think this truck has had
Atleast "some" regular oil changes but idk
if it has been done every 3k miles. Any
advice or suggestions on what to look for
when examining this truck is appreciated!
Thanks!
#2
04-17-2015, 02:07 PM
Got the same truck, minus 4WD and a few miles...LOL. I have nothing but good things to say about mine. The engine has been steady as a rock along with the rest of the drivetrain.
When you examine the truck, take along something to lay on and either jack it up, or run the front end up on a curb, so you can get under and check for leaks.
Tell the seller not to start the truck prior to your arrival, you want to start with the engine cold.
Bring along a code scanner and scan for codes!!! If you don't have one borrow/buy one
Have the seller rev the engine for five seconds, as you observe what emits from the tail pipe. If it smokes, walk away.
Check for oil in antifreeze and vice-versa.
Watch temp and oil pressure gauges closely.
Oil and transmission dipstick handles should not be dirty and the stick should not be glazed. That's a sign of fluids not being checked. You can also pull the fill cap but don't be surprised to see strange buildup on the cap, it happens with these trucks.
Shift transmission in drive, reverse etc. The shift should be instant and smooth. Any delay or clunk... walk away. Shifts should also be smooth and unforced while driving.
Check records for transmission fluid and engine oil changes.
Check brakes by holding in place for about ten seconds. Should not sink to floor. While driving and braking...wobble usually indicates needing front rotors.
Rock steering wheel in place and while driving. Excessive clunking or play, means front end work. Usually ball joints and end links are needed on these trucks.
Be sure to check AC and HEAT!!!
I can go on and on... I'll let others chime in.
When you examine the truck, take along something to lay on and either jack it up, or run the front end up on a curb, so you can get under and check for leaks.
Tell the seller not to start the truck prior to your arrival, you want to start with the engine cold.
Bring along a code scanner and scan for codes!!! If you don't have one borrow/buy one
Have the seller rev the engine for five seconds, as you observe what emits from the tail pipe. If it smokes, walk away.
Check for oil in antifreeze and vice-versa.
Watch temp and oil pressure gauges closely.
Oil and transmission dipstick handles should not be dirty and the stick should not be glazed. That's a sign of fluids not being checked. You can also pull the fill cap but don't be surprised to see strange buildup on the cap, it happens with these trucks.
Shift transmission in drive, reverse etc. The shift should be instant and smooth. Any delay or clunk... walk away. Shifts should also be smooth and unforced while driving.
Check records for transmission fluid and engine oil changes.
Check brakes by holding in place for about ten seconds. Should not sink to floor. While driving and braking...wobble usually indicates needing front rotors.
Rock steering wheel in place and while driving. Excessive clunking or play, means front end work. Usually ball joints and end links are needed on these trucks.
Be sure to check AC and HEAT!!!
I can go on and on... I'll let others chime in.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 04-17-2015 at 02:09 PM.
#3
04-17-2015, 06:32 PM
Welcome to the forum Etasky!
You don't need a code scanner. Your truck is "smarter" than most.
With the truck not running, turn the key to "run" (don't start it!), then back to "off", then "run" again, back to "off" and this time leave it in "run."
Codes will display in the odometer window. It'll say P DONE when finished.
I have an '00 with the 4.7 and 141k miles. I have no complaints about mine either. It runs great.
You may notice some "oil emulsion" under the oil filler cap. This is NORMAL in colder weather.
Pay close attention to the front ball joints.
Make sure it shifts into all 4wd and 2wd modes. You may have to move the truck slowly, that's normal, but it should go in easily.
ONE WARNING, there are two transfer cases available. One is full-time 4wd and the other is part-time. You CAN NOT drive the part time 4wd on dry pavement with it engaged. It doesn't allow the slip between the front and rear axles when turning. The label on the visor should tell you what you have.
If you want you can get a "build sheet" with all the options. Go here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ur-dakota.html
You don't need a code scanner. Your truck is "smarter" than most.
With the truck not running, turn the key to "run" (don't start it!), then back to "off", then "run" again, back to "off" and this time leave it in "run."
Codes will display in the odometer window. It'll say P DONE when finished.
I have an '00 with the 4.7 and 141k miles. I have no complaints about mine either. It runs great.
You may notice some "oil emulsion" under the oil filler cap. This is NORMAL in colder weather.
Pay close attention to the front ball joints.
Make sure it shifts into all 4wd and 2wd modes. You may have to move the truck slowly, that's normal, but it should go in easily.
ONE WARNING, there are two transfer cases available. One is full-time 4wd and the other is part-time. You CAN NOT drive the part time 4wd on dry pavement with it engaged. It doesn't allow the slip between the front and rear axles when turning. The label on the visor should tell you what you have.
If you want you can get a "build sheet" with all the options. Go here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ur-dakota.html