I would say your best choice is spend your money on the front brakes some slotted rotors and quality pads the rear Just make sure they are working properly and keep them adjusted by hand. Replace all the springs, shoes and all the little stuff and replace the cylinders they are very cheap around $5 to $10 each.


If you want get some new calipers they are all reman now but so be it. New flex lines may be a good option to be sure they are not going bad if original then flush out all the old DOT 3.


That's about a complete Brake refit except the master and booster.

 

Thanks for all the advcie guys, but Im not looking for advice on how to maintain my current brakes; Im asking if there are any off-the-shelf or bolt-on brake system upgrades for these gen II Dak's. I dont want to spend all the time and money replacing components on the existing setup just so later on down the road when I do upgrade to something different, it'll all go to waste.

Specifically, I am asking if there is anyone on this forum who has installed any rotors/disks/calipers from another model, or trim or aftermarket company that are different than the OEM company that bolted straight up.

Anyone on here with an R/T Dakota or Durango? Are the brakes on those vehicles any different than the non-R/T models?

Has anyone swapped out their old drum rear axle for one from a newer truck with disks?

Or are there any other Chrysler vehicles that has spindles/knuckles/rotors/calipers that would be a direct fit with a better design(IE not having the stupid brake pad fingers riding directly on the knuckles?

 

Take a hint. If we're reccomending things about the stock brakes, what makes you think that there is aftermarket support? If ANY aftermarket supposed the dak/dur platform, I bet 75% of this forum would go that route instead of hodgpodging the existing brakes...because that's the only option for our platform.

Swapping another rear axle from a durango will do little good unless you have absolutely zero rear brakes now or a modified suspension to jack weight around. On our trucks, the front brakes do a majority of the work, making the rear better will just give you excessive lockup. I have the "performance" 9x2.5 rear drums instead of the base 11x2 drums, and I'm constantly getting rear lockup without using the e-brake, and I can lock the rears up at 45mph with the brake pedal halfway down if I have the e-brake set to 1.5-2". If you're going to be towing alot, then the disc swap might be OK. But if you're going to be solo alot or in the rain alot, I wouldn't suggest it without an adjustable proportioning valve.

Just to fit a bigger rotor, you'll need to find one with enough meat left to convert from a 6x5.5" toyota or 5x5.5 generic to our 6x4.5 lug pattern. Then you have to match up hat height so the rotor isn't too far in or out. then find a caliper to fit and make a custom caliper mount that won't break off under heavy braking.

 

Per the FAQ thread's pattern section:

91-09 Dakotas, 98-03 Durangos, All Vipers, and 05-08 Nissan Pathfinder/Frontier/Xterra, 04-05: Cadillac SRX, Suzuki Equator 08-09.

The viper discs require a 20" wheel IIRC. The SRX may be same situation. But the Nissan's might get you close. You'll still need to match hat height and figure out how to mount the caliper.

 

Besides the problem like the grooving of the spindle and other problems are not on every Dakota it just happens on some and to differing degrees. The two standard problems are the self adjusters not working and the weird front brakes binding problem all these problems are avoidable with vigilance and understanding how they work and there problems.


What you are looking to do may and will cause you just as many problems if not more or give you a dangerous braking combo.


I will say anyone that relies on their breaking ability heavily is not driving in a safe manner you should always think beyond that.