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Oil pressure drop

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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #11  
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If your Dakota has a digital odometer display. Just run the diagnostics on the gauges too see if it's the gauge or the sensor.

Ok hold in the trip odometer reset stick then turn on key too accessory just till lights on display come on . Release odometer reset button and your truck will check gauges. You will see tach and mph gauges move and reset.
This process has fixed many glitches in the gauges on dodge trucks.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 08:46 PM
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Default Instrument panel test

SELF TEST The instrument cluster self test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the self test the instrument cluster circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate all of the segments or portions in the Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) unit, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again. Successful completion of the self test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CAN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Transmission Control Module (TCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) or the hardwired inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. 1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position. 2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button. 3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine. 4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button. 5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the LCD unit and perform a bulb check of each operational Light Emitting Diode (LED) indicator. The LCD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. 6. The self test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The self test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM over the CAN data bus during the test.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 09:13 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by tspeed109
If your Dakota has a digital odometer display. Just run the diagnostics on the gauges too see if it's the gauge or the sensor.
That doesn't test the sensor. All it does is show that the gauge moves. The gauge is digital not analog like in years past. Input from the oil pressure sending unit goes to the PCM where it is encoded and put on the CCD bus.

A mechanical gauge is the best way to verify. Since he does not hear any valve noise - and it should be very noisy if there was truly no oil pressure it is likely the sending unit itself.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tspeed109
If your Dakota has a digital odometer display. Just run the diagnostics on the gauges too see if it's the gauge or the sensor.

Ok hold in the trip odometer reset stick then turn on key too accessory just till lights on display come on . Release odometer reset button and your truck will check gauges. You will see tach and mph gauges move and reset.
This process has fixed many glitches in the gauges on dodge trucks.
Originally Posted by 00DakDan
That doesn't test the sensor. All it does is show that the gauge moves. The gauge is digital not analog like in years past. Input from the oil pressure sending unit goes to the PCM where it is encoded and put on the CCD bus.

A mechanical gauge is the best way to verify. Since he does not hear any valve noise - and it should be very noisy if there was truly no oil pressure it is likely the sending unit itself.

All good to know. Thanks, guys. New Mopar sender from Amazon arrives today. I'll see if Advance or some other parts store has an oil pressure gauge I can borrow. Might still get the one from HF. I imagine it's a good tool to have when car shopping, although private sellers might object to it being hooked up. LOL... They all balk when I pull out a code reader.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 10:48 PM
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Well guys, looks like I'm in the clear. I installed the Mopar oil pressure sender this evening and also checked the pressure with a gauge. When I removed the old sender, I saw that it was leaking oil.

At idle, roughly 650-700 rpm, I was at 48 PSI (below 4 is low). At 3000 RPM, It was 90 PSI (I believe low is 25 psi). The 90 PSI is probably less than it should have been, because I was an idiot. I had the gauge's pressure hose too near the crank pulley and the drive belt burned right thru it. While I was in the truck gassing it to 3K RPM, oil was spewing out the hose and it was still reading 90 psi. What a holy mess I discovered. Had to go get some engine degreaser and wash down the engine.

Ah well, I'm happy it wasn't the alternative. The pressure needle is now steady just above halfway pt.

Thanks, all.

PS: The 4.7 oil pressure sender is just above the oil filter. I removed the filter and was able to extract it using a small pair of channel locks. None of my fixed wrenches fit, as it was too big.
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; Aug 22, 2017 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 10:00 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 00DakDan
It very well could be the sender. Before you do anything else put a mechanical gauge on it to verify the electric one.

Mine did the same exact thing and it was the sender.

Did you hear the engine rattling when the ding occurred? The lash adjusters would have made a lot of noise.

The oil pump is on the crankshaft. You'd need to drop the oil pan and then remove the timing chains/tensioners, etc. It's a lot of work. If you're going to do it then replace the timing set while you're in there.

I know a rehash on this. I changed the wifes oil this last saturday, I ran it around a bit and all seemed fine. Took it to work Monday all's good, but the closer I got home...thankfully not to far away....it started tapping. Oil pressure was reading below 40. Not usual at all. I checked the oil level after I let it set for a bit. Oil level is perfect. I start the truck up and it goes up to between 40 and 100. Once it is warmed up the oil ps drops to below 40, I accelerate and it goes right back up, I come to a stop it goes back down, and a slight tapping can be heard if I sit to long. I'm thinking a clogged pick up tube.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 12:41 PM
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Sounds like you need to drop the oil pan and check/replace the tube. Get a pressure gauge and take an actual reading.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 05:33 PM
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Hopefully the link works...it shows what I'm seeing once the truck is warmed up...I'm about to just get a new pump, pick up and gasket and be done with it.

I mention tapping but you can't hear it in the vid


I also just realized I'm posting in the wrong group and thread....my bad
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 05:25 PM
  #19  
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Default Iffy oil pump or sensor

2001 Durango 4.7 4WD 183k miles.
Having questionable oil pressures on the guage. Upon start up the gauge goes up to normal but after driving at normal engine operating temp the guage drops down to the lower tic mark. It hasn't gone below the low line but prior to it doing this I noticed the pressure consistently running at the higher tic mark bit not above. I assumed the pressure sensor was going bad. This is where I go with a $30 replacement sensor rather than an oil pump nightmare.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by chyzmom
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 oil pressure fluctuation - YouTube


Hopefully the link works...it shows what I'm seeing once the truck is warmed up...I'm about to just get a new pump, pick up and gasket and be done with it.

I mention tapping but you can't hear it in the vid


I also just realized I'm posting in the wrong group and thread....my bad
How was the oil pump replacement? Was it a nightmare?
 
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