2nd Gen Dakota Tech 1997 - 2004 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 2nd Gen Dakota.

Starting the build process

  #31  
Old 10-25-2016, 09:42 PM
magnethead
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The laser cut parts came in today. I'm quite impressed. I won't know if the crank trigger plate is true until I bolt it on. Being CNC cut and CAD designed, it should be.

I had the spacers cut with a 5/16 ID, I'll have to drill a couple out for the 3/8 bolts. But since some parts use 5/16, I defaulted to that.

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  #32  
Old 10-30-2016, 01:00 PM
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Next piece of the puzzle is test-fitted. Still need to do some cleaning up on the bolt holes, but it's on there. Next step, accessory bracket spacers. Need to drill 4 of them out from 5/16 to 3/8 like I did the blockoff plate.

I have the underdrive pulley bolted up to the crank trigger wheel, but i need to machine out the inner bore of the tone wheel. I didn't account for there being a counterbore on the balancer.

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Last edited by magnethead; 10-30-2016 at 01:36 PM.
  #33  
Old 11-13-2016, 07:33 PM
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Received a new accessory bracket from Dan P on the Dakota Facebook group, have a new timing cover coming from Scott B of the same. For whatever reason, both of mine had an ear broken off at the same spot. I've put a deposit down on Mike Moriarty's Iron Ram cylinder heads and cam, as he is upgrading and I'm am taking his hand-me-downs [He's a fellow north texas guy with a respectably fast stock block dakota].

At this point, all I need is to find an intake manifold and a 4BBL throttle body, and I'll have everything arranged for receipt except the rotating assembly and powerglide.

I also have the bracket spaced out with the 3/8" spacers to account for the new tone wheel.

ATI is instructing for me to run the #918605 Super Damper, SB Chrysler snout and SB Chrysler bolt pattern. The hitch is that it reportedly does not clear the factory timing mark (even though factory balancer is 7.25 and ATI is 7.0") and thus the mark has to be ground down. I'm still going back and forth with them on that front, as their chart is for the LA engine family and not Magnum. http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...amchrysler.htm As best as I can tell from some photos, the LA timing mark is significantly lower than the magnum timing mark.

I had to go on California for all last week for emergency reasons, so this week's project is to pick up where I left off, and get the tone wheel mounted to the balancer and see if that theory works. I'm already exploring ideas to improve the design for the V8.

Also talking to Richard at HiPoTek about his PDC mount, transmission crossmember, and motor mounts.

Also, a note for myself, the LA mount tabs are 7/16" holes, 7/8" set back from the face of the block.

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Last edited by magnethead; 11-13-2016 at 09:43 PM.
  #34  
Old 11-14-2016, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
3/8" thick tone wheel. wow. way too heavy. could've used 1/8".
I thought about using 1/8" or even 1/4, but wasn't sure how sensitive the factory sensor is, considering the windows on the factory tone wheel are 3/8ish wide. I do intent to window the V8 version when cut, so it will loosely resemble the MSD wheel. That should cut quite a bit of weight, I may step down to 1/4".

The wheel is fairly true, very little runout when I had it running off the factory sensor. The spacers I cut @2.25" aren't perfect off the chop saw so it has a little bit of fore-aft runout. I wanted to cut them on a lathe for consistency but I don't have ready access to one

I dead-timed the motor and found that I just happened to get a spot that could line up without much modification. I just need to flip the wheel around backwards and out an 1/8" spacer under the sensor.

The intention was to put it between the balancer and pulley, but it won't clear the water pump.

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  #35  
Old 11-15-2016, 10:39 PM
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Well, the theory has been tested. The IAC keeps hunting to keep it idling and sometimes i have to foot-feed it (especially open loop).

The CPS is from the junkyard motor in the garage, so I think it's way off. I hit it with a timing light tonight and it was firing at varying points in the gap and sometimes before the gap.

I'm going to throw a new CPS at it and see what that does. Also going to grind down the nuts on the sensor a little bit to widen the gap just a hair, the sensor got hit by the wheel a couple times (also not helping).

I know it looks like hell, but this is literally just a quick test. I still need to tidy up all the wiring (some of which needs to be re-done anyways). The tone ring is supposed to be behind the pulley, but since it wont clear the mechanical water pump, it had to go in front of the pulley. I also had to relocate the water pump drive up so that the power steering pump will have room for the pulley.

 
  #36  
Old 11-19-2016, 11:38 PM
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C&P from another thread, since this info is relevant to the build log :P

My buddy owns Steerco Performance/AGR Steering in Fort Worth. This isn't so much a plug for him as a quick chronicle of a research & development attempt.

The pumps on our trucks are called "Saginaw P Pumps". They use a bronze bushing to support the shaft, which is usually what causes a leaky mess. The pump itself is fairly small if you remove the tank, but it's still pretty sizable.

At his suggestion and my space requirement, I am converting to a GM / LS style "Saginaw Type 2 pump". It is MUCH smaller, is designed for either external or onboard tank, and uses a sealed roller bearing and coated vane pump to generate pressure. Mine is set up for 1250 PSI at 3 GPM with a .120 oriface as I recall.

I'll be using a Jeep JK power steering tank PN 52126151AG and suction hose PN 68078355AF. I picked up the assembled pump on Friday and will order the mopar parts on Monday.

The mounting ears are on 80mm centers, as it is designed to mount to an LS cylinder head with 5/16 bolts.Pulley I am using is 5.25", same as my underdrive crank pulley. GM PN is 10166383ABW , application unknown. If you have the stock 7.5" pulley, you will want a bigger pump pulley- the pump likes to be driven 1:1 with the crank most of the time, maybe a slight overdrive. The bearing is much more tolerant to RPM than the bronze bushing.

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  #37  
Old 11-20-2016, 07:27 PM
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Starting to get an idea of what will be going into all of this:

Stock block needs to be Vaated and sonic checked. May also have it decked, line-honed, and new cam bearings.

Scat PN# 4-360-3580-6123-2 forged 4340 crankshaft $1,297.97

Scat PN# 2-360-6123-2124A forged 4340 H-beam rods $598.97

Cometic PN# C5554-040 MLS Head Gaskets $78.19 x2

and two choices of pistons:

ICON PN# IC742-030 | 1.675 Compression Height , +9.60cc $626.97

ROSS PN# 99627 | 1.669 Compression Height, +5.50cc $689.97

Based on a 62cc chamber, the icons will give me a 10.3:1 CR and the Ross will give me a 10.8:1 .
 
  #38  
Old 11-22-2016, 11:02 PM
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Got the power steering pump mounted up. Takes a 3/8" spacer on top and 1/2-5/8" on bottom. Dug through my factory bolt bin and found a long semi-stud that fit well on bottom, needs some washers added as shims. Top took one of the 3/8" spacers i already had laying around. The 6-rib LS pulley lines up well with the 6 rib belt already on the motor. May step down to a 5 rib to be safe if I can get one the right length.

I re-dead timed the motor and still have not made progress with getting a happy spot for the front crank sensor. So I'm going to swiss-cheese the bracket in hopes that the gap stays the same across the range to move the sensor a few degrees to either side. I'm going to use another long semi-stud to play with it's position, then once i get it working I'll go back to a regular bolt.

One of my friends has a Modis Ultra, so he's going to let me borrow it.

Pardon my not-centered X's. I'm going to drill the holes much better than i drew them.

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Last edited by magnethead; 11-22-2016 at 11:07 PM.
  #39  
Old 11-29-2016, 10:37 PM
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further playing with the ignition system. The factory crank trigger is 5V/GND/signal, and the signal is pulled high by a resistor. When there is material present, it shows 5 volts. When there is a hole, it drops out. So I just need to tap the sensor on the truck to find a hole on the factory flexplate, and find a matching spot on the new tone wheel and swiss-cheese bracket to align just the same. The thought is that the transition from hole to steel is what fires the sensor, which would be the rising edge. I'll have to verify on the truck. The video on page 2 shows the exact opposite (normally 0 volts, pulled high on the hole). Once I get that part sorted out, I can make progress with other things.
 
  #40  
Old 12-03-2016, 08:52 PM
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Did some poking around on Scat's site. Turns out they have 3 different cranks for the 360 block, the standard weight is external balance, the 2 lightweights are internal balance.

I can have Reher-Morrison or Morgan and Sons balance the rotating assembly, figure a couple Benjamins for that. Parts list below, figure out $2700 plus piston rings. I just sent an email to ICON for a piston ring suggestion. Probably be into the rotating assembly for $3200 or so.

Going to buy the harmonic balancer on Monday, along with the MSD 6AL2-P 6530. Hoping to mount the MSD where the factory infinity amplifier is, on the passenger kick panel. That should give me easy access to the programming port and make for a short run to get to the underhood wiring (avoiding drilling and adding a grommet directly in the firewall, go through the doorjam instead...ideally). My January paycheck will go towards paying off the cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty, and February and March will get combined for the Powerglide and new driveshaft.


4-360-3580-6123-2 Lightweight Internal Balance Crankshaft - $1300

2-360-6123-2124A Rods, Rod bolts included? - $600

ICON IC742-030 +9.6cc pistons - $650

Cometic C5554-040 Head Gaskets - $80
 

Last edited by magnethead; 12-03-2016 at 09:02 PM.

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