New to this forum. I purchased this old farm truck (4 cylinder, 5 speed manual)to get back on the road as a commuter.

The brakes didn't work, changed the brake light switch: done.

Definitely needs a muffler+exhaust. The fix is obvious: I'll get the muffler replaced

The radiator fan isn't turning on, I see a hardwire directed to the fuse box, but no other direction. If I can't figure this out, I'll make a switch for it.
Edited-5/9/16, fixed. Was a bad relay

To the electrical stuff: the speedometer, dash lights, cab lights and blower don't work. Would this all be interconnected or is it a package deal?
Edited-5/9/16, started a thread about this. Some custom wire funk discovered under the dash. Here is the link to the thread
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota-tech/395070-under-dash-weird-wiring-found.html

I have a Bluetooth obd adaptor that connects to my phone app "torque". Not coming on or not connecting to Bluetooth. It seems the adaptor is not working or am I missing something? Although the check engine light comes on, the engine runs great (the air temp sensor is missing), so it is hard to believe the ECU is fried.

Like said, engine and transmission are sound with very little oil leak (around valve cover only).

Are these familiar issues that have a posted fix? I didn't see much on the forum yet.

 

The radiator fan isn't turning on, I see a hardwire directed to the fuse box, but no other direction. If I can't figure this out, I'll make a switch for it.

With the 2.5 engine the fan is controlled by the PCM/computer by the coolant temp sensor at around 210 it turns on it also turns on when using the A/C. So if the A/C works the fan should turn on at the same time. This usually works well keeping the coolant temps ok unless you are stuck in stop and go traffic.

So to sum it up the engine stays cool as long as the truck is going around 45 mph or higher just by the air flowing through the radiator with no need for the fan on. At lower speeds heat will start to rise till the coolant sensor reads about 210 then the fan kicks on.

But your problem may be the fan is dead toast replacement fans for the 98 do not exist but two work arounds can be done. One I have not tried and may not work the other involves using either a fan assembly from another car or the use of a efan from a 2nd gen Dakota with an efan by modifications in a few different ways.

 

This may help my fan change over I decided to change my 98 to what a 2001 2.5 Dakota was changed over too they changed the rad, fan and A/C condenser with a few other minor changes I made all these changes so my 98 Dakota is now more like a 2001 2.5 Dakota.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ain-later.html

 

Thanks for the great info! I am waiting for some time to test the fan directly with the battery. If not operational, I have installed foreign fans before, shouldn't be that bad of a job. Lots of great pictures in the link. I'll use that as a reference

 

Fan is fully operational! It was a bad relay. Swapped with the ac relay and the fan came on when it was supposed to, then came off. Who would've thought! They sold this truck to me for $600 because it was overheating, so I thought I'll try the fan and look more in depth into thermostat and sensors, but this was an unexpected surprise.
Still under budget!

 

I don't know about the wiring but that piece of dash sticking down between the parking brake and the hood release looks weird as hell I cut that back flush the first week I owned my Dakota.

That wiring looks like a security system is up under the dash.

 

The weird stuff in the top left corner on the second Pic is insulation I think must have dropped down when I removed my dash last year.

Looks better with that piece of dash cut back

Thats weird I just noticed my brake peddle is lower than the clutch peddle wonder whats up with that yours look even.

By the way my OBD port looked like yours rusted up I took it off cleaned it and painted it gray way better.











Your Pic

 

Loving the mats! Yea there's a lot of rust. The truck is a cosmetic disaster, but the engine runs strong (for a 4 cylinder). I'm just trying to make the obd connector work so I can plug in diagnostics (check engine light is on) and my bluetooth connector for some data logging. The speedometer is not working so I'm using the GPS speedometer on my phone, but I'd like to get the torque app to work with some realtime data, too.

It looks like the multi switch may be faulty. Turn signals do not work when the headlights are on

 

I would pull the security system most security systems installed are hack jobs this may be your problem. Get a super bright flashlight and get a good look under the dash then try to remove it your problems may vanish. I had a flickering dome light that was a result of my security system how it was wired was a mess I spent many hours trying to fix it but I finally did fix all the mess they left me.

 

About the clutch position: the previous owner said they replaced the clutch a few months ago. What I can tell you the retracting springs for the brake and clutch pedals are in the door side compartment. Otherwise, the clutch starts to bite way off the bottom (at least 6 inches). May need some adjustment, but if it has to stay like that I don't mind it. I have limited time to work on it until the weekend, but I may see if I can remove the security system. Not only I don't have anything to activate it, the paint job and cherry bomb exhaust take care of any theft possibility. First "big money" I would spend would be an OEM generic muffler