2000 Dakota Hard Brake Lines
#1
2000 Dakota Hard Brake Lines
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport with 202,000 miles. The rear hard brake line on the driver side busted today, spraying fluid everywhere. It was pretty corroded, and when I looked at the other lines they appear to be in bad shape as well. I want to replace them all. Does anyone know a good source to purchase prebent replacements for these trucks? If not, has anyone made their own lines from the AGS lines (or similar) that you can bend by hand?
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
#2
I recently replaced every single hard line on a '99 2WD.
There were a combination of bubble flares (metric I think) and double flares. I bought a roll of 3/16" tubing from Advance Auto to run the length of the frame, and made my own double flare to connect to the rear rubber line.
Otherwise, I bought everything from NAPA, and where I had a double flare on one end and bubble flare on the other, I cut and joined with compression fittings. If you do that, just be aware a savy inspector may not pass it, and it's not recommended to use compression fittings on brake lines.
Not sure why. I'm 4-years into the last one I used on my Chevy without problems.
Everything was 3/16" and easy enough to bend by hand. Inexpensive benders are out there though.
There was a junction block on the drivers side frame that was accessible from the drivers side wheel well once a clip in door was removed. I relocated this to below the battery which made it easier to get too.
There were a combination of bubble flares (metric I think) and double flares. I bought a roll of 3/16" tubing from Advance Auto to run the length of the frame, and made my own double flare to connect to the rear rubber line.
Otherwise, I bought everything from NAPA, and where I had a double flare on one end and bubble flare on the other, I cut and joined with compression fittings. If you do that, just be aware a savy inspector may not pass it, and it's not recommended to use compression fittings on brake lines.
Not sure why. I'm 4-years into the last one I used on my Chevy without problems.
Everything was 3/16" and easy enough to bend by hand. Inexpensive benders are out there though.
There was a junction block on the drivers side frame that was accessible from the drivers side wheel well once a clip in door was removed. I relocated this to below the battery which made it easier to get too.
#5
I used the polymer coated, didn't do any research just grabbed them.
Thought of something else I learned the hard way:
Making a double flare on 3/16 line is a pain in the rear, at least it was for me. If I were to do it over I wouldn't even try, I'd buy & splice all of them.
If you do decide to try & have to buy the tool make sure it'll make a double flare, not just a flare.
Also don't let the line rest against an edge (I.e. Frame). If you have too zip tie a piece of rubber fuel line on. Learned that one the hard way years ago!!
Thought of something else I learned the hard way:
Making a double flare on 3/16 line is a pain in the rear, at least it was for me. If I were to do it over I wouldn't even try, I'd buy & splice all of them.
If you do decide to try & have to buy the tool make sure it'll make a double flare, not just a flare.
Also don't let the line rest against an edge (I.e. Frame). If you have too zip tie a piece of rubber fuel line on. Learned that one the hard way years ago!!
#6
Thanks sjohns45. I am going to have a shop flare the ends for me. I purchased the AGS poly armor coated line from Autozone. It bent pretty easily by hand. Got it pretty close to the shape of the rear line that runs along the driver's side rail. It was a pain to get to the two clamps holding it on but I got em. Hopefully get it to a shop today to get the line flared.
#7
My 98 2WD blew a line to the RF caliper right underneath the steering shaft (right along side the DS frame).
How difficult was it replace this whole line ? Looks like a real PITA to me.
I'm pondering cutting out the corroded area and splicing with compression fittings ?
Have any tips for flaring the ends ?
How difficult was it replace this whole line ? Looks like a real PITA to me.
I'm pondering cutting out the corroded area and splicing with compression fittings ?
Have any tips for flaring the ends ?
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#9
#10
Kathmandu,
It was a pain, I ended up relocating the junction block below the steering shaft to make it easier & more accessible, wasn't a big deal for me since I was doing all of the lines though.
I didn't really learn a trick for flaring, it was just a pain with several practice flares that didn't look good.
That line is probably one that is a double flare on one end and bubble flare on the other.
If you splice in a new piece (I've done that too), just make sure you're splicing to non-corroded solid line.
It was a pain, I ended up relocating the junction block below the steering shaft to make it easier & more accessible, wasn't a big deal for me since I was doing all of the lines though.
I didn't really learn a trick for flaring, it was just a pain with several practice flares that didn't look good.
That line is probably one that is a double flare on one end and bubble flare on the other.
If you splice in a new piece (I've done that too), just make sure you're splicing to non-corroded solid line.