... To have disc brakes and limited slip.. As well as the rear swap bar.. Not sure what you're getting at here..

No, its not easier or cheaper to just do it to my 8.25.

 

Im asking because drum brakes are just great as about 75 to 80% of all braking is by your front brakes because of the ABS system.

You could say the swap wouldn't gain you much if that was the main goal only plus would be ease of pad replacement over shoes and all the springs.

I would invest in better rotors and pads on the front if you want better braking and some good shoes as a little extra.

The front is were all the braking action is.

 

Second part nails it. I refuse to do drum brakes. IDC how easy some say it is I don't wanna learn. Plus its 9" drums vs 12" rotors

If the rear wasn't limited slip, no I wouldnt do it just for the disc brakes, its a group package. And the sway bar is icing on the cake.

 

you mentioned an adjustable proportioning valve? if your goanna plumb this into the rear line without doing any thing else( Im assuming your going from drum to disc) then this will not work, you can lower your line pressure(yes) but, you need about 3X more line pressure to operate disc brakes, ive seen guys removing the factory proportioning block and then using an adjustable valve after that ( this could work) or you might need the master cylinder and factory brake valve for front and rear disc brakes only to make these brakes work properly...just a thought..

 

I appreciate the advice, again.

The way I look at it, any brake action in the back is better then what I have now. When I went to put on a set of wheels a few years back, I decided I'd remove one drum to check the condition of everything. When I removed the drum, some thing fell out and didn't even bother with the other side.

Idk how, but my brakes are still REALLY good. And I figure I have 2.5 wheels worth of brakes. Been wanting to redo everything in the real, but as they say, if its not broke don't fix it. And theyres no squeeling from the rear drums and like I said it still stops on a dime.

When it comes time to actually get this thing under, I plan to get the axle and driveshaft planted, and then its going to a shop to do the brakes. They'll figure it out and I'll pay to have it done. Reason being, I have a really good flare tool, but I can make flares to save my life. I have a couple great options in my area when it comes to things like this that won't charge me an arm and a leg.

So after it would get out of the shop, time to turn and burn!

 

Good news! (Tried posting this last night but phone said f u)

I contacted a friend last night telling him what may be going on. And he told me he had done this quite a few years ago from an 04.

Anyways, he said he didn't do anything special for the brakes. Just hooked up the factory lines and he has never had any lock up issues in the last 5 years.

He also said one shock mount was on the wrong side as we know, but he said he just hooked the shock up the the normal 9.25 shock mounts and its been great.

But he made a customers drive shaft. Which I may not need to. That's 50/50.

So if this does happen I may try putting it under my truck and go from there.