ok i got a gilrfriend with a 2000 dodge dakota brake pulsation problem. i have replaced the put aftermarket rotors on it to fix the problem. i have had them(the rotors) cut 2x. i have replaced both front calipers, bled and flush system 2x and the front rotors warp after driving the truck for a week. is it the rotors that are garbage? is it the way my girlfriend drives? are dakotas prone to rotor warpage? do i need to step up and buy factory rotors at 140 each?

 

Yes, their prone to all sorts of warpage. Here is a question, what aftermarket rotors did you get, also what pads are you running - hi-temp pads with cheap rotors = warpage very quickly. Avoid factory rotors, they warp as bad (and as fast) as cheap rotors. If you have done the viper brake conversion (viper rotors and calapers) start looking at the girlfriend, otherwise the rotors suck.

 

the aftermarket rotors that i put on it were from pepboys and the calipers were just rebuild from a local auto store pads were raybestos pads not sure if there high temp. will factory pads and factory rotors warp just as fast. there is a reason there warping this fast is the rotors were designed to small for the size truck that it is? what is a viper brake conversion? (pads and rotors off of a viper)
also im not looking for performance brakes the brakes that the truck has stop it just fine they just warp quickly.

 

VYTAMENC, I HAVE A 97 DAKOTA 5.2 4X4, I WAS ALSO GETTING A SEVERE PULSATION, I WAS TOLD BY NAPA AUTO THAT THE DAKOTA ROTORS CAN'T BE TURNED, DUE TO THE METAL IN THE ROTORS, SO I PICKED UP A MID GRADE SET (RAYBESTOS) AND A SET OF CERAMIC PADS. THEY ARE STILL WORKING FLAWLESSLY. HOPE THIS HELPS

 

Does she ride with left food resting on brakes? IT IS A MUST TO TORQUE the lug nuts, or the rotors will warp. You should use only hi quality USA made rotors. If your calipers are not locking, and caliper slides all lubed and working it must be her riding the brakes over heating thinks. Good luck !

 

For starters, the factory OEM rotors are crap. DCX (Daimler Chrysler) switched to a softer metal bout 7-8 yrs ago and has since seen a higher rate of rotors being shot/damaged. What happens is since the metal is softer, they are wearing and warping faster due to the heat.

You're best bet is to replace them with midgrade rotors, ceramic brakes, and make sure that all your fluid levels are good. I would also make sure that you check your rear brakes. These could be potentially bad as well.

Also, if you are using a rebuilt caliper, it could be that they are malfunctioning. Also, you could have just gotten a bad set of rotors.

Truth be told, I'd have it looked at by a professional. Least see if you cant find a place that does free diagnostics or one for a low fee such as 25-30$.

 

I'm suprised you got the rotors cut twice!
My front brakes went at 15,500 miles I called Chrysler and they told me that if the front rotors where rusted or pitted I would only have to by the brake pads at dealer cost! Well lucky me that they where and they replaced them for nothing, now i got 30,300miles and they are pulsing again. I'm not even going to bother with the "stealership" this time cause the OEM brakes are pure crap!

It is worth it to step up now and pay for the better brakes you'll get twice the life and have to change them half as much!

 

I would also like to know what a viper brake conversion is, I have also been plagued by warped rotors. Is it just viper rotors, calipers, and pads? I need help because my rotors wont last past 6,000 miles. And I use brakes as little as possible. Ive got a 00 4.7l sport

 

You have something else going on then. (I would also point out, that this thread is pushing 20 years old, I highly doubt any of the posters in here, are still around.....) Either the caliper pistons are binding, or the guide pins are sticky..... or the soft lines are breaking down internally, and acting as check valves......