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Crank no start issue

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Old Dec 18, 2024 | 11:33 PM
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Default Crank no start issue

ground pin of coil connector
ground pin of coil connector
power pin of coil connector
power pin of coil connector
Voltage at 30
Voltage at 30
Resistance to ground at 87
Resistance to ground at 87
Resistance to ground at 86
Resistance to ground at 86
Resistance to ground at 85
Resistance to ground at 85
I've got a 1997 Dakota SLT with the V6 engine, 2wd, 2 Door+backseat, and its got 317,000 miles on it. The engine will turn over but I have no spark, its got good battery voltage and I replace the crank sensor and coil about a year ago and I replaced the destributor cap and rotor about two years ago. This week I've replaced the cam sensor, spark plugs and plug wires with no results. the relay is good and it seems to be getting power in the right places from the fuse box (you can hear the relay activate if you plug it in with the key in accesory). The primary side of the coil is reciveing very low voltage and both prongs have a connection to ground when both the coil and relay are unplugged. Because of this I believe it could be short to ground or a PCM issue.
 

Last edited by SkippyG; Dec 19, 2024 at 02:08 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Dec 19, 2024 | 09:35 AM
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PCM fires the coil by breaking the ground circuit. Now, I don't know if it should normally ground, with ignition off. Trick would be to see if the PCM is actually switching the ground while cranking. Likely need an analog meter to really test that though.

Low voltage at the coil IS a problem though.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2024 | 06:06 PM
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I clipped a test light to the postitive of the battery and put the tip in the ground side of the coil wire and it did not flicker. iI was thinknig this was because it was recieving constant ground.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2024 | 08:59 PM
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While the engine was cranking? If so, sounds like a bad crank sensor, or PCM.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2024 | 10:30 PM
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Power side of the coil comes from the ASD relay. Ground side is pulse interrupted by the PCM, likely using a MOSFET for which the 2.5 ohm value is probably not far off because of leakage and quiescent currents. If you were to remove both battery cables, short them with the key on, that would drain all the systems to zero volts and should open that circuit.

I would check continuity with key off from the coil positive wire to the ASD relay socket and verify the wire isn't damaged AND that there's unlikely to be voltage drop across it.
 
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