I want to assume C3 and C4 are wheel side, C1 and C2 are harness side? * My FSM is 2001.

 

My airbag line can be seen blurred in the back. The bright yellow connector, as I started it without the pictured connector connected and the only effect was the horn, no airbag light. My clockspring has a non-removable wire with the yellow connector, had to feed it down through the column for the airbag.



Appears to match the "Clockspring C3" in the 2000 FSM. Although, the wire position in the C1 diagram matches, the color codes do not, except for the horn.

In my original image, left to right is Black/Red, Black/Light Blue, White/Light Blue. The FSM lists them as Black/Red, White, Red/Light Green. So apparently by the FSM, the wires *are* there, even if the color codes don't match. I need to figure out how to probe them to ensure the switches are working. If Chrysler hadn't disabled the light when not equipped, I could see if the cruise is actually turning on or not. Gotta figure out if it's electrical, or mechanical. Although, I would think, if the cruise was actually turning on but the actuator was having issues, that throws a code. The missing ones in the FSM list as Radio Control Mux and Ground with squares beside it dictating "radio remote" so naturally I won't have those. ALSO... I kiiiinda forgot to recenter the clockspring when I put it in, whoops. It doesn't seem to have gotten damaged on my test-drive though, horn works and airbag light still off.. Will make sure to take it back off and recenter before testing anymore. I wonder if I'm being victimized by the brake switch... I need to try the "lift" trick, but my pedal only has about 1/16" play to be pulled upwards.

So now the question is: Using a multimeter, what settings/pins to I poke to check if the switches are indeed working? The vehicle I pulled them from DID have the window down and possibly got rained on.

EDIT: My BK/LB matches your FSM's color for the Sensor Ground, and matches the 2000's FSM for pin location. The RD/LG is nowhere to be found, although listed on both. How odd.

 

The switches won't easily be affected by liquid/high humidity. They are open frame, very simple.

On the switches, red and light green is signal to PCM (via pin 73 of connector 200). Black/Light Blue is ground reference. Each button is a different resistance. They form a voltage divider within the PCM. If you probe across the 2 switch wires, should get different resistances for each button. If you connect them and backprobe the wire, you'll see a different voltage for each button (via said voltage divider)...or so I am told, never tried.

 

I'm trying to figure out exactly how to test the switches/clockspring. I figured check the ohms for resistance and voltage to ensure it gets power, but I cannot find anything specific for a dakota. I've found info for other vehicles and older models that do not match up.

 

Go for a drive, and see if it works?

 

Tried that a few times, that's why I'm trying to narrow down what actually isn't working. I'm sure it'll end up being something stupid.

 

Pick of your cruise controls? (in the steering wheel? Same as the full-sized trucks?)

 

Factory in the steering wheel.

 

If it works the same way as the full size trucks, the pcm sends voltage to the switches, and the switches just modify the voltage, they are different resistances, so, should show lower voltages when the buttons are pressed....