That's what I thought so as well, should have 5V at the signal wire. As far as the brake switch breaking the circuit, no. The brake switch interrupt is done after the PCM on my truck. I do not have a yellow with red tracer in my column. Both sensor ground and VSC signal go straight to the PCM. Which is (I assume) why I do not have 12V at V32, yellow/red going to the brake switch, and subsequently Blue/Red at the servo. I'm thinking the PCM doesn't power this line until I turn cruise on, although I also read in the diesel section that V32 is not powered until the PCM reads 2k rpm, then remains powered. I haven't tested revving past 2k then checking for 12V at the yellow/red. I DID pull the brake switch and tested it, everything seems fine and has wide tolerances.

EDIT: Did another test during break, I get a constant 3V instead of 5V, pressing switches changes the voltage accordingly. Trying to rev past 2k for a few seconds and tapping on, I could not get over 3V at the signal wire to the switches, and backprobing the yellow/red at the brake switch netted me 0V when pedal down, .01V when pedal up (likely just feedback from the system) This was consistent. Also brake switch position does not affect 3V to switches. So as stands, PCM is providing 3V reference to switches and no voltage to the servo control wire. I hope the reference wire isn't grounding anywhere... I don't want to have to trace it...

 

Yes you will NOT get 5 volts with the buttons connected because of the bias resistor. What resistance do you get across buttons while disconnected and not pressed? That would be the bias resistor.

With the buttons unhooked, you should have 5 volts at the clockspring.

 

I get 2.98 volts no matter what. Tested with the buttons hooked up, buttons unhooked, and testing the harness directly not plugged in the clockspring. The only variance is testing with it all hooked up and pushing buttons (of course, since the button resisters come into play). Which causes voltage drops. In no scenario do I actually get 5 volts.

 

hmmmm. Much confused.

 

Test the wire at the PCM, getting 5 volts there??

 

Testing will have to wait... Someone tried to steal my car, so focus is shifted there temporarily until it's repaired... Note "tried"... They broke the window, popped the bezel off the column, then noticed the key switch was in the dash, popped the bezel off the dash... then noticed it was a manual and gave up. Three pedal anti-theft saves the day. After reassembling everything, physical damage is minimal, all the trim went back nicely, pry mark on the left side of column, couple wrinkles in the chrome trim that holds the window seal on the door. biggest damage is the broken window, which is $11 at a local yard, just gotta find a warm day to do it. Not even a scratch on the ignition, apparently they noticed it was a manual and thus realized they couldn't even drive the car before trying to break the ignition to start it. Sigh, hopefully I'll nab that window this weekend and put that behind me and get back to figuring out the issue with this "plug and play" system. Why can it never be simple for me?

 

comprehensive insurance wont cover replacement window?

 

That'd require me to carry comprehensive. It's a 1997 Toyota Camry with 459,000 miles and rough around the edges, it's pretty much my beater car. I'm emotionally attached to it, but I'm not going to sink money into it. Been one hell of a reliable ride, so I'll just drive it until it doesn't drive anymore. Carrying extra insurance on it would be pretty much a waste, as insurance would only want to mark it as "totaled" no matter what. Co-worker has the same problem with their insurance company, tried to get a new paint job on his 99 Ram 1500 cause someone got too close and drug their mirror down it leaving a white paint streak bumper to bumper (parked on the street, no witnesses), insurance said they'd only pay up if it got marked totaled, given a salvage title, and he pay for a rebuilt title... For a paint stripe. So he simply dropped comprehensive on it for that reason.

 

ah, can't blame you there. sounds like my co-worker's Camry. Probably same generation. He can't even afford to replace the squeaking belt much less replace the car....

clutch cars are definitely a theft deterrent to modern thieves.

 

While I wait for a day to hit the junkyard for a window, I'm gonna continue brainstorming my dakota. As stands, issue seems to be the 5V reference wire, only getting 3V... By the wiring diagram I found, it doesn't seem to be a shared reference, but I'm going to ask anyway. Does ayone know if the speed control 5v is a shared reference wire? Possibly a bad middle-sensor or such. Otherwise, I'm going to have to check if the wire itself is shorted somewhere, and that's going to be a real pain... Is it plausible to ohm the wire to check for shorts/grounding? If I pull the connector off the PCM and check for continuity first, then check ohms, I should get near 0 resistance on a good wire, correct? If it shows resistance, it's grounding somewhere? Or is it possibly a weak engine ground strap, if so, which one should I check/clean (I know, all of them preferably, but trying to diagnose first.) Also anyone have a picture of the engine bay ground locations just to ensure I have the proper ground locations (as previous owner replaced the engine, and I've already found several things not quite right, like the purge solenoid installed upside down).

EDIT: Also, how would I check said reference wire at the PCM? Unhook the connector and test the pin, or does it require the connector plugged in. I'm assuming this can be done without piercing the wire to get a lead contact.