So long as the pressure on whatever side is lower than pressure in the can, sure, it'll flow in there. I think having both valves open at the same time though, will tend to have the system use the gauge set to equalize pressures....... just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

 

Not sure what to tell ya A/C work can be a tricky thing especially if you dont know why it was disconnected by the last owner.

A part may be plugged like the orifice tube or condenser it took me 3 trys before I fixed all the problems my A/C had.

My system had black death and was fixed by a shop but they never cleaned the system or replaced everything needed. This was 4 years before I started refurbishing the A/C myself. I missed a few things that forced me to fix it two more times so replacing as much as possible is a smart move.

The shop that fixed the black death never told me that was my problem and why it died. When I opened it up the first time the orifice tube was black and mucked up. Second time I fixed it the schrader valves were leaking when I looked at them they were toast the black death had cooked them.

 

Yep, mine failed due to a blocked oriface valve that wiped out the compressor.

 

So, this morning I went back to the drawing board. With the gauges reading 0psi, I pulled the 10mm bolt and removed the lines, inspected the flat o-ring washer things, made sure everything was seated nicely and reinstalled the 10mm bolt. I then hooked up my gauge set and vacuum and let it run for about 15-20 minutes per the manual then closed off the valves. Gave it about another 15 minutes... lost some vacuum pressure. Repeated what I did above, with one addition. I added a little thread seal tape to the end of the 10mm bolt. Back to vacuuming it down for about 20-25 minutes and letting it sit. This time I found a can of r134a w/ the UV Dye that had about 15% in the can. It has the push button top so I was able to force some in. Switched to another can and about 10% went in and then all suction stopped. When I connected my gauge set my lowside was at 40psi-50psi and highside was around 30psi. At what pint does the LPS kick in to allow the compressor to run? I'm also not hearing an audible "CLICK" when I jump the compressor with the battery. I can only see this ring being drawn forward as if towards a magnet but no clicks, no turning of the clutch assembly. Would we say this is yet another bad compressor?

 

why are you using junkyard compressors instead of just buying a new, known good sanden? You have no idea if junkyard ones are good, they could be rusted out inside.

 

I'm beginning to ask myself that question, but when the local yard had a 50% off sale I got the a/c compressor for about $35 which included a 12 Month warranty... The new one you mention is at least $100. At this point my effort and trips back and forth have already exceeded the $65 difference.... But I want that sense of accomplishment.

 

I agree sandens are the best but pricey other brands are cheaper but not sure of the quality.

But yea why junkyard compressors?

 

I forgot but a high side of 30 psi is way low almost impossible you must mean 300 psi.

 

98DAKAZ,

Why Junkyard Compressors... because the local yard had a 50% off sale I got the a/c compressor for about $35 which included a 12 Month warranty... As to the highside psi, you read it correctly...30ish....it may have reached 40psi.

 

Take a closer look at your gauge most show in 3 or 4 pressure scales you must be looking at the wrong one.

Its impossible to have a lower (high side psi) than the (low side).

Well I guess if the compressor is not pumping then both high and low side would be equal but I dont see that happening it should read very low about 15 or 20 psi.