Thank you 98DAKAZ,

I've purchased a Manifold Gauge Set and an Air Powered Vacuum Pump, I've gone to a local family owned shop and had the r134a pulled from the system @ no cost. They also did a jumper test on the clutch, and found it to be faulty. Luckily the yard I bought the compressor from offers 12 month warranty, so i'll be swapping compressors in the parking lot and doing the jumper test on the replacement before it goes in! Given your advice and the number of videos I've watched I believe I'm on the path forward...

Replace Compressor (Oil added manually to lowside port before installation) / Hook up my Gauge set & Vacuum down system / Verify Vacuum pressure holds / Recharge!

 

Great Im not sure you did this or are going to do these.

But a few other things should be done as insurance all that can be done is done so other small problems don't pop up.

You should replace the high and low side shrader valves a very common leak point and they go bad.

Proper amount of (pag 100) and a shot of (pag 100) I usually short the pag 100 2 oz. and use the pag 100 shot to top it off.

You install the pag 100 shot first after the system was vacuum out and pressure checked for leaks then pump in the r134.

so oil shot then r134 the system is in a vacuum so it sucks in the oil shot easy.

You should always replace your orifice tube also it can be a hard thing to do though they are usually pushed up the tube and hard to extract.

Its hard to explain everything but these steps and replacement parts give you insurance no other problems pop up.


USE EXTREAM CAUTION AND SAFETY GLASSES WHEN WORKING ON THE A/C system its DANGEROUS when charged up.


PAG 100 oil shot 3 oz.


New HIGH and LOW caps and new schrader valves
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Orifice tube and were its located notice in pic how its installed the problem is usually its pushed up inside the tube more than normal after the A/C system has been in use.



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I forgot to push out the orifice tube I used pressured air or a high pressure washer if you cant get it out a complete new orifice tube with the aluminum line can be purchased.

But to extract and install the new line you need the pinch spring line tool.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oii4eKizdb8

 

Another Update: Pulled another Compressor from the yard. I've been told when doing the "jumper test" I should hear a click... I do not. I do however see this piece on the clutch move like its being drawn forward. I then poured into the lowside about 2oz of pag100 (Spun clutch by hand for it not to overflow), hooked up my gauge set, vacuum it down. When it held around 27psi Vac, I then closed all valves & disconnected my vacuum pump. Here's where I hit a snag, upon starting the engine, turning both AC and Blower to max settings both highside and lowside read 0psi, and there's no suction from the lowside to draw in refrigerant and further more...the clutch isn't engaging. I've read that you can jump relay connectors 30 & 87 to try and force the compressor to run but that isn't working for me. I also saw people online using paper clips to "bypass" the LPS? Anyone have any direction for me from here?

I'm heading out to test for 12V at the relay and at the connector to the compressor clutch...

 

There is likely still a vacuum on the system, so, no, it won't run. If you give it the opportunity to suck in some refrigerant though, it will eventually start cycling.

 

 

Either the source can isn't cracked open, the hose is clogged, or the valve is crudded up. It's gotta be something easy.

 

 

The refrigerant in the can is under pressure. With an empty system, (even atmospheric pressure) the refrigerant should flow in there and bring up pressure on the low side, when the compressor kicks on, pressure will drop quickly, sucking even more in. Check the ends of the hoses, and see if the little stick feller that is supposed to open the schrader valve as you screw it on fell out. (those are quick connects, aren't they? Still, same thing applies.)