First dakota
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
First dakota
looking at a 02 dakota 155000 4.7 v8 4wd for $2000. Looks to be in good shape minus a little rust above one or two of the wheels. Never owned a dakota or a dodge before. Need a decent reliable truck for a couple years. It's a 02 so I'm sure issues will arise I just don't want to constantly be spending big money on it. Does this sound like a good truck for me? What are common issues?
Section Moderator
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,858
Likes: 47
From: MA
Welcome to the forum.
The ball joints are a weak spot. At that mileage I'd be checking the heater core too for either a leak or poor flow. Make sure to cycle the 4wd into all positions. It's electronic and can be be problematic if not used frequently.
The engine, if it has been maintained, shouldn't cause any problems. If it has ever been overheated, use caution. The transmission is a fairly sturdy design.
The ball joints are a weak spot. At that mileage I'd be checking the heater core too for either a leak or poor flow. Make sure to cycle the 4wd into all positions. It's electronic and can be be problematic if not used frequently.
The engine, if it has been maintained, shouldn't cause any problems. If it has ever been overheated, use caution. The transmission is a fairly sturdy design.
Champion
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta
These trucks are great and reliable. I've got the 2003 QC with same motor (2WD though) and I'm almost at 300K, burning no oil or anything. I drive it roughly 50 miles daily. Hopefully you have a tow package, which would mean it has a large ATF cooler in front of the condenser and larger radiator. Indeed, ball joints are a weak spot. It's usually the upper ones that wear out and they're riveted in, so more fun. Sway bar endlinks are usually worn at that mileage too. 2003-2004 has the benefit of rear disk brakes, if you happen across one of those instead. You may find it has emission codes due to leaks in hoses from evap canister or somewhere in the engine compartment. You will find yourself hunting down split hoses for that.
You should run tradiator flush through it and also flush/back-flush the heater core. I do have some slight leaking of the valve cover gaskets, but I re-torqued the bolts and it's a non issue. Personally I'd run motor flush through it, then start using 0W-20 oil right away. Don't use thick oil which can increase the risk of sludging. These 4.7L are higher revving engines with smallish oil galleys. You'll probably have hydraulic lifter ticking on cold start, but should quiet down within 1 minute as oil flows to upper reaches. Mine's done that since I've had it.
As with any "new" to you used vehicle, you want to check all the fluids daily, till you can ascertain what may be leaking/burning. You will want to drain the ATF (pan drop required) and change the filter (there are two). Stick with Mopar for the spin-on filter and reverse hose out the flat filter with a garden hose. Before you put the pan back on, install an aftermarket drain plug in it, or buy a pan with drain from Advance. Drain every 20-30K with ATF +4 thereafter.
At some point or another, I have replaced these sensors, sticking with mopar units:
TPS
Coolant Temp Sensor
Oil Pressure sensor
IAC valve (cleaned and reused)
Look under my threads and you'll find all my adventures.. LOL. Biggest issue I had was a small HG leak which I fixed *chemically*, back in 2015.
You should run tradiator flush through it and also flush/back-flush the heater core. I do have some slight leaking of the valve cover gaskets, but I re-torqued the bolts and it's a non issue. Personally I'd run motor flush through it, then start using 0W-20 oil right away. Don't use thick oil which can increase the risk of sludging. These 4.7L are higher revving engines with smallish oil galleys. You'll probably have hydraulic lifter ticking on cold start, but should quiet down within 1 minute as oil flows to upper reaches. Mine's done that since I've had it.
As with any "new" to you used vehicle, you want to check all the fluids daily, till you can ascertain what may be leaking/burning. You will want to drain the ATF (pan drop required) and change the filter (there are two). Stick with Mopar for the spin-on filter and reverse hose out the flat filter with a garden hose. Before you put the pan back on, install an aftermarket drain plug in it, or buy a pan with drain from Advance. Drain every 20-30K with ATF +4 thereafter.
At some point or another, I have replaced these sensors, sticking with mopar units:
TPS
Coolant Temp Sensor
Oil Pressure sensor
IAC valve (cleaned and reused)
Look under my threads and you'll find all my adventures.. LOL. Biggest issue I had was a small HG leak which I fixed *chemically*, back in 2015.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Sep 13, 2018 at 01:29 PM.