SKF BR930361 Hub/Bearing assembly installation log.
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Professional
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Hey guys,, Is it normal for these Dodge Dakota Hub assemblies to slide on and off so easily on the spindles??? Im beginning to wonder if the previous installer may have emeried the spindles a bit to much?
Also.. the whole thought of the stretched threads and nylon lock ring keeping the nut from backing off unsettles me,, but apparently it works as the old nuts had no thread-locker and were very tight. Although, in retrospect, i still wonder if i should of used a tad of thread locker.
Also.. the whole thought of the stretched threads and nylon lock ring keeping the nut from backing off unsettles me,, but apparently it works as the old nuts had no thread-locker and were very tight. Although, in retrospect, i still wonder if i should of used a tad of thread locker.
Last edited by XSubaruJeepDude; Dec 8, 2018 at 12:43 PM.
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From: Clayton MI
Thread locker isn't necessary. The ny-lok nuts simply will NOT come off on their own. They work exceptionally well. Make sure to torque to spec though. (I didn't watch the video. Done too many of these on various vehicles.)
The splines on the axle are hardened, so, you would have to do a LOT of sanding before it made any difference at all.
Of course, tolerances on the splines in the hub can vary a little bit, so, some go on almost too easy, and others won't go on without a little lube. Putting some anti-seize on the splines is a great idea, especially if the hubs slide on easy. (that means there is a bit more room for moisture to get in there, and rust the two together..... never to be parted. )
The splines on the axle are hardened, so, you would have to do a LOT of sanding before it made any difference at all.
Of course, tolerances on the splines in the hub can vary a little bit, so, some go on almost too easy, and others won't go on without a little lube. Putting some anti-seize on the splines is a great idea, especially if the hubs slide on easy. (that means there is a bit more room for moisture to get in there, and rust the two together..... never to be parted. )
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Atlanta
Changing the hubs was very easy as I didn't have to deal with front axle shafts (2WD). One big axle nut (36 mm) and off they came. No cotter pin, no nothing. Torque was 185 ft-lbs. The noise is completely gone as is the weird tracking I would get during sweeping turns. Both old bearings were dry as chip, when spun by hand.
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2018
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Thread locker isn't necessary. The ny-lok nuts simply will NOT come off on their own. They work exceptionally well. Make sure to torque to spec though. (I didn't watch the video. Done too many of these on various vehicles.)
The splines on the axle are hardened, so, you would have to do a LOT of sanding before it made any difference at all. Of course, tolerances on the splines in the hub can vary a little bit, so, some go on almost too easy, and others won't go on without a little lube. Putting some anti-seize on the splines is a great idea, especially if the hubs slide on easy. (that means there is a bit more room for moisture to get in there, and rust the two together..... never to be parted. )
The splines on the axle are hardened, so, you would have to do a LOT of sanding before it made any difference at all.
Of course, tolerances on the splines in the hub can vary a little bit, so, some go on almost too easy, and others won't go on without a little lube. Putting some anti-seize on the splines is a great idea, especially if the hubs slide on easy. (that means there is a bit more room for moisture to get in there, and rust the two together..... never to be parted. )
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Joined: Aug 2018
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Yep the 35mm was perfect fit. in fact i tried a 1-3/8 socket and it fit also but it was 12 point, so i chose the 35mm impact. very good fit , no rattle.
It's interesting to note that the nuts i took off do not have "Do not re-use" printed on them.
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Atlanta
I reused mine with no issues so far. Checked them recently and they hadn't loosened.