Cranks, No Start, ignition coil wire always grounded
#11
#12
#13
#14
Once again, that is working exactly as it should. The PCM breaks the ground circuit to fire the coil. You have provided an alternate ground path, so, the coil will never fire. (until you turn off the ignition anyway, then it will fire once.....)
Hook one side of your led up to the POSITIVE battery cable, the other end goes to the ground side wire of the coil connector, with the coil UNPLUGGED. You don't really care if the engine starts at this point, you are trying to determine if the PCM is actually trying to control the coil.
Hook one side of your led up to the POSITIVE battery cable, the other end goes to the ground side wire of the coil connector, with the coil UNPLUGGED. You don't really care if the engine starts at this point, you are trying to determine if the PCM is actually trying to control the coil.
#15
Once again, that is working exactly as it should. The PCM breaks the ground circuit to fire the coil. You have provided an alternate ground path, so, the coil will never fire. (until you turn off the ignition anyway, then it will fire once.....)
Hook one side of your led up to the POSITIVE battery cable, the other end goes to the ground side wire of the coil connector, with the coil UNPLUGGED. You don't really care if the engine starts at this point, you are trying to determine if the PCM is actually trying to control the coil.
Hook one side of your led up to the POSITIVE battery cable, the other end goes to the ground side wire of the coil connector, with the coil UNPLUGGED. You don't really care if the engine starts at this point, you are trying to determine if the PCM is actually trying to control the coil.
#16
#17
I've replaced both, I was tinkering and have some info here though!
Okay, so i put a paper clip into pin 1 of my crank sensor (Gy/B)
and put my led between that and positive+ battery terminal
I cranked and got great light and pulsations
I probed the end of that wire and was trying to see if I got the same on the other end of the wire, my LED fell so I don't know what happened here, but It suddenly started!
I don't now if this was because i was plugging and unplugging the PCM terminals or if i moved one of the wires so that it made a good connection.
Right now it fires right up, but I don't know what the issue is still.
I probed the end of that wire and was trying to see if I got the same on the other end of the wire, my LED fell so I don't know what happened here, but It suddenly started!
I don't now if this was because i was plugging and unplugging the PCM terminals or if i moved one of the wires so that it made a good connection.
Right now it fires right up, but I don't know what the issue is still.
#19
#20
OK, so, 1997 3.9 V6, as a reminder.
The flexplate for the V6 is goofy and gives crank sensors hell. I had all kinds of issues with 2 diff store sensors till i got a genuine mopar. But even a sensor that's been at the bottom of the ocean for a year should still fire at least once per rotation.
Did you ohm out each of the 3 wires to the crank sensor, and verify connection at the PCM connector? The ground may not go to PCM, I forget.
Second, do you know if the fuel injectors are firing at all? I'm going to guess not, but if they are, that's another rabbit hole.
The flexplate for the V6 is goofy and gives crank sensors hell. I had all kinds of issues with 2 diff store sensors till i got a genuine mopar. But even a sensor that's been at the bottom of the ocean for a year should still fire at least once per rotation.
Did you ohm out each of the 3 wires to the crank sensor, and verify connection at the PCM connector? The ground may not go to PCM, I forget.
Second, do you know if the fuel injectors are firing at all? I'm going to guess not, but if they are, that's another rabbit hole.