Check the connectors AT the pcm. I don't know what resistance across the sensor does as temp changes..... There are probably some test values in the factory service manual though.

 

I tested the connections again and got 5V on the tan/black wire and 0V on the black/white one..I also tested another ECT sensor from an intake manifold I had laying around (don't ask-It still hurts to think about it). It was new when the motor blew. Boiling it with my meter between the slug and the wires did not change the Ohm reading at all.

Steve

 

If I knew the pinout I could figure out what points on the PCM to check. I can't see where the two wires enter the PCM.

 

Got a wiring diagram? It should tell you. I don't know if there is a manual for your truck layin' around here anywhere...

 

Checking at the PCM won't mean much since you're getting the full 5V and 0V at the sensor pigtail, unplugged.

 

Ok I found a diagram for the Dakota. Black/LT blue is the common bus voltage input to virtually all of the sensors. There is a splice that feeds the intake air temp and ECT sensors. The IAT sensor goes to the ECM B/R on C1-15 and the ECT T/B on C1-16. I am going to ohm out the T/B wire from plug to connector and if that is good it must be the ECM. LG/O on C3-6 says it goes to the instrument cluster, I am assuming it is the feed to the temp gauge

As a side note, the sensor does not read to ground. I was able to test the other ECT sensor by hooking up the meter between B/LBL and T/B and boiling the sensor. Cold was over 12 ohms and boiling was .7 ohms.

I may remove the ECT sensor from the engine and test it as well.
Steve

 

The T/B wire rang out good and the sensor is reading temperature (ohms go down as temp goes up. this leads me to believe the ECM is scrambled.

Here is a picture of my ECM

I plan to head down to a couple of Pick & Pulls tomorrow. They show a number of 98 Dakotas and Durangos. The Brass Ring would be to find one that matches ALL the numbers, but which number am I looking for and how close does it have to be? If I find a 98 Dakota 5.2 auto will that suffice?

Thanks
Steve

 

Chrysler part number is the only one you really care about, that includes the large numbers/letters in bold. The last two letters are not overly important though, just different revisions of the hardware. Needs to come from a vehicle with the same engine/trans that you got. Probably have to have it flashed to your vin as well. (assuming it does everything else right.) SRS and ABS want matched parts.

 

This. P56046328AA to P56046FF would all be functionally equivalent. But the year will absolutely need to match, as will powertrain (1998 5.2/auto). Airbag may or may not get upset about a VIN mismatch, but anti-lock brake probably will.

 

So I went to the first Pick & Pull and ALL the 98 modules had been stripped out, so I didn't even drive the 25 miles down to the other one. I figured that if the modules were gone out here, the yard in the city had already been picked clean.

Another problem has reared its ugly head. I am not sure, but I think this truck came from the bastion of Left Coast Lunacy known as California. I can't find an emission sticker anywhere, but seem to remember a work order slip from San Robles or someplace similar in 98 or 99.

If that is the case, I have a better chance of hitting the lottery than finding a module locally. Is there a way to check what emissions this truck was built with? Is there a sticker somewhere I am not looking?

Thanks Again
Steve