Multiple Issues (Possibly Related?)
#1
06-09-2020, 05:40 PM
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Multiple Issues (Possibly Related?)
Hi Guys,
I have multiple issues presenting at the same time on my 1998 Dakota SLT V6. I could use some help connecting the dots. I've been working on cars/trucks for 8 years but this is my first dodge truck. I will give a brief outline of each:
Recent Repairs within the past year: New TPS, New Plugs/Wires, New Fuel Pump, New Rack and Pinion and Steering Shaft
Sorry for throwing all this at y'all at once but I want to put all the clues in there. Please advise on what may be the issue here, as always I appreciate the help guys!
I have multiple issues presenting at the same time on my 1998 Dakota SLT V6. I could use some help connecting the dots. I've been working on cars/trucks for 8 years but this is my first dodge truck. I will give a brief outline of each:
- The engine backfires (popping noise) (never had this issue before on a vehicle and there's not a whole lot of information online for some reason).
- Right when these backfires occur, the engine loses power and essentially does almost nothing when i'm giving it 60% or less throttle. For some reason as soon as I lay down the throttle, it wakes back up and takes off.
- I get a one or twice a day rough idle and rarely it will even stall out.
- Out of nowhere I will get both the ABS and Brake light illuminating. One day backing down a customers driveway (big hill), I lost power brakes and what felt like brakes altogether and slid down and jack-knifed my trailer. I had a similar feeling of loss of braking power today in traffic, went away almost immediately.
- Frustrating thing is that I rarely get a check engine light. One time it spit a TPS code, changed that out today actually. The whole issue has escalated recently and I got P0132 code finally today (Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor Voltage High).
- Engine is using much more fuel lately it seems
- Engine began to overheat while running rough yesterday
Recent Repairs within the past year: New TPS, New Plugs/Wires, New Fuel Pump, New Rack and Pinion and Steering Shaft
Sorry for throwing all this at y'all at once but I want to put all the clues in there. Please advise on what may be the issue here, as always I appreciate the help guys!
Last edited by tony1098; 06-09-2020 at 09:04 PM.
#2
06-09-2020, 06:34 PM
Unplug the O2 sensors, and see if the running problems go away.
The loss of brakes would make me REALLY nervous to drive it.... I don't think that's related to the above problem, unless you engine was trying to die at the time? (loss of vacuum means loss of power brakes.)
Does the speedometer quit working when the brake/abs lites come on? That one might be real easy if it does, if it doesn't, need to read codes, and see what they have to say.
The loss of brakes would make me REALLY nervous to drive it.... I don't think that's related to the above problem, unless you engine was trying to die at the time? (loss of vacuum means loss of power brakes.)
Does the speedometer quit working when the brake/abs lites come on? That one might be real easy if it does, if it doesn't, need to read codes, and see what they have to say.
#3
06-09-2020, 07:57 PM
A crack in the vacuum hose going from the engine to the vacuum booster could also cause this. The extra air from the open vacuum line confuses the computer while the engine goes lean, and the loss of vacuum kills the brakes. The port the hose connects to on the booster is a one way check valve that holds enough vacuum to get you a few stops if the engine dies, but if it's already depleted then it doesn't work. Plus, the ABS may be interpreting the brake action required to stop with no boost as a fault, I'm not sure what all inputs the ABS uses other than a tone ring on the ring gear in the rear diff. Kind of odd that it would cause intermittent problems though, so may not be this. Check both the hose and all plastic fittings, because vacuum requires just enough of a seal to hold and it works fine. If it's a hard plastic fitting cracked the right way, it might hold vacuum unless the engine torques over.
This one is a long shot, I admit, but it also has the simplicity of being one component that can cause all of the symptoms described.
This one is a long shot, I admit, but it also has the simplicity of being one component that can cause all of the symptoms described.
#4
06-09-2020, 09:01 PM
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Unplug the O2 sensors, and see if the running problems go away.
The loss of brakes would make me REALLY nervous to drive it.... I don't think that's related to the above problem, unless you engine was trying to die at the time? (loss of vacuum means loss of power brakes.)
Does the speedometer quit working when the brake/abs lites come on? That one might be real easy if it does, if it doesn't, need to read codes, and see what they have to say.
The loss of brakes would make me REALLY nervous to drive it.... I don't think that's related to the above problem, unless you engine was trying to die at the time? (loss of vacuum means loss of power brakes.)
Does the speedometer quit working when the brake/abs lites come on? That one might be real easy if it does, if it doesn't, need to read codes, and see what they have to say.
#5
06-09-2020, 09:03 PM
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A crack in the vacuum hose going from the engine to the vacuum booster could also cause this. The extra air from the open vacuum line confuses the computer while the engine goes lean, and the loss of vacuum kills the brakes. The port the hose connects to on the booster is a one way check valve that holds enough vacuum to get you a few stops if the engine dies, but if it's already depleted then it doesn't work. Plus, the ABS may be interpreting the brake action required to stop with no boost as a fault, I'm not sure what all inputs the ABS uses other than a tone ring on the ring gear in the rear diff. Kind of odd that it would cause intermittent problems though, so may not be this. Check both the hose and all plastic fittings, because vacuum requires just enough of a seal to hold and it works fine. If it's a hard plastic fitting cracked the right way, it might hold vacuum unless the engine torques over.
This one is a long shot, I admit, but it also has the simplicity of being one component that can cause all of the symptoms described.
This one is a long shot, I admit, but it also has the simplicity of being one component that can cause all of the symptoms described.
#6
06-09-2020, 10:55 PM
Legend
Does yours have 4 wheel ABS or rear-only?
Rear only has a long/skinny module that looks like a second proportioning valve with 2 brake lines (1 in, 1 out).
4 wheel has a giant hydraulic monstrosity that occupies a chunk of the fender well next to the master cylinder and has 6 brake lines attached (2 in, 4 out). Being a 98 it "should" be RWAL, but 4WAL did exist to my knowledge.
It could definitely be lean popping due to the vacuum leak mentioned by others above and the O2 issue.
As HeyYou said, unplug the O2's and see how it behaves (ignore the O2 codes that will cause). When you go Wide Open Throttle, the computer ignores the O2's completely and douches the engine with fuel and timing. That would explain why it goes from stupid to normal with pedal input.
Rear only has a long/skinny module that looks like a second proportioning valve with 2 brake lines (1 in, 1 out).
4 wheel has a giant hydraulic monstrosity that occupies a chunk of the fender well next to the master cylinder and has 6 brake lines attached (2 in, 4 out). Being a 98 it "should" be RWAL, but 4WAL did exist to my knowledge.
It could definitely be lean popping due to the vacuum leak mentioned by others above and the O2 issue.
As HeyYou said, unplug the O2's and see how it behaves (ignore the O2 codes that will cause). When you go Wide Open Throttle, the computer ignores the O2's completely and douches the engine with fuel and timing. That would explain why it goes from stupid to normal with pedal input.
#7
06-10-2020, 06:10 PM
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Does yours have 4 wheel ABS or rear-only?
Rear only has a long/skinny module that looks like a second proportioning valve with 2 brake lines (1 in, 1 out).
4 wheel has a giant hydraulic monstrosity that occupies a chunk of the fender well next to the master cylinder and has 6 brake lines attached (2 in, 4 out). Being a 98 it "should" be RWAL, but 4WAL did exist to my knowledge.
It could definitely be lean popping due to the vacuum leak mentioned by others above and the O2 issue.
As HeyYou said, unplug the O2's and see how it behaves (ignore the O2 codes that will cause). When you go Wide Open Throttle, the computer ignores the O2's completely and douches the engine with fuel and timing. That would explain why it goes from stupid to normal with pedal input.
Rear only has a long/skinny module that looks like a second proportioning valve with 2 brake lines (1 in, 1 out).
4 wheel has a giant hydraulic monstrosity that occupies a chunk of the fender well next to the master cylinder and has 6 brake lines attached (2 in, 4 out). Being a 98 it "should" be RWAL, but 4WAL did exist to my knowledge.
It could definitely be lean popping due to the vacuum leak mentioned by others above and the O2 issue.
As HeyYou said, unplug the O2's and see how it behaves (ignore the O2 codes that will cause). When you go Wide Open Throttle, the computer ignores the O2's completely and douches the engine with fuel and timing. That would explain why it goes from stupid to normal with pedal input.
I believe that mine is RWAL. Here is a photo of my ABS unit.
