So the cooling under normal conditions and even some moderate wheeling has been much better with the tip of the radiator probe covered.

I just purchased a trailer, around 4.7k lbs pulling yesterday. It did ok I suppose but needs help cooling. I couldn't go over 50mph as my rpms would then be over 2k which caused the temps to creep up to around 212, had to turn off the air to keep it under control but never really went over 212-215, I didn't push it past 50mph. When I'd stop at red light the fan would cool it back down to 180-200ish depending on how long I was at the light. If I stop and idle it'll cool back down to 170ish cutting the fan back off. While putting the trailer on my property (through grass) It was working hard enough to get temps up to 220-225 ish so I kept having to put the truck in park and let it idle so the fan could get it back down, which it did every time. So the extra load of the trailer is obviously causing added stress that the cooling system can't keep up with.

I currently have a standard 1.25" thick core 1 row radiator. I just ordered a CRF or whatever it's called, 1.67" thick and 2 row. Think this extra surface area will be enough to get it back down to manageable cooling and be able to go the actual speed limit (50-65mph around here) while pulling this trailer and able to move the thing in dirt/grass where the truck has to work harder to move it?

Any tips/suggestions other than the rad as I'm upgrading that and other than going back to clutch fan? I'm at the understanding now that if the upgraded radiator doesn't do the trick then I guess I'm stuck going back to clutch fan which I REALLY don't want to do.

 

CSF radiator? That rad *should make a difference. I know you don't want to go back to clutch fan but if you're towing much, I'd be wanting a setup like the factory HD tow package. That includes upgraded radiator, electric AND clutch fans + transmission cooler.

 

So I took out the clutch fan and went with the efan as listed above. I do have the tow package on truck which came with the factory trans cooler, im going to be upgrading that as well.

Just want to keep temps around 200 or less when towing 5k lbs (6350lb capacity listed for truck) without these random spurts of almost over heating hitting 212-220 when under load.. mind you I'm also in humid south Florida so 90% humidity @ 95° regularly in the summer.

Buddy of mine said possible head gasket leak, which I'm aware could be an issue, I just don't have any of the major signs (smoke, water in exhaust, loss of coolant, water in oil, none of those signs).

Idling with air on full blast in 100° weather it stays cool with the setup, put the motor under load and it starts heating up quick.

 

Normal vehicle temp is 195 to 220. Hitting 220 ain't gonna kill anything and expecting under 200 while towing may be bit ambitious. I mean you can get it there with lower temp thermostat, big rad, etc. but when you're not under load, you may be running the oil too cold. Well, you've got the 5.9 so maybe that's okay but for my 4.7L, I think about sludge. I already see the yellow goop up in the oil fill cone in the winter time as is.

Recently I thought of doing like you and converting to e-fan only... https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-fan-only.html
In the process of looking things over, I found out that my factory e-fan was not working and probably hadn't been for many many years. So I hooked up one of those bluetooth code readers which can show live data on the app. Found that sitting with AC on blast, I was hitting 126* F. Been this way FOR EVER!




I ended up getting this e-fan and kept the clutch, for now.
Temps came down considerably and AC runs colder while sitting. It's only been a few tanks of gas since, but I seem to have picked up a few more mpg. I guess while the electric fan was out, the clutch fan was engaging more and putting more work on the engine. I'll tell you, this fan probably hasn't worked in 8 years. I've towed cars on 4 wheel trailers between states, running 8 hours straight in ignorant bliss. No idea what the temps were and this is a 4.7L... they do not like to be overheated. Also forgot to tighten the coolant cap a few times. LOL https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...the-4-7-a.html

 

Lol, I hate seeing my temps cross that 210 line at the top of the gauge, I've got. 180 tstat and the cooling fan set to kick at 185.

That factory efan was only designed to run at 220° (I think) and when the AC was on. I went through the Amazon fan, didn't cool enough without clutch at all. The one I linked above from dynamics or whatever seems to get the job done. Partial shroud, wish it was full shroud, other than that it's holding its own, which I would hope so for the price. The fan module is nice, completly adjustable temp settings and came with rad probe or the coolant sensor, I didn't want to install the sensor though, extra work

What temp should I start freaking out if "normal" goes up to 220. 220 to me seems waay too hot. I like 190-200. Def under that 210 center line on the temp gauge.

 

My truck runs at around 213* on the highway doing 75 mph. I like keeping the 4.7 at the intended temps cause it burns fuel more efficiently and and less chance of sludge formation. That dummy temp gauge can be highly inaccurate. I'll run with the scan tool soon and get some more numbers. You should pick one up for better accuracy, just unplug it when you shut down, as it doesn't turn off. This is the one I got There are better for cheaper, but I needed one that would work with Bimmercode.

I believe the e-fan kicks on around 205- 210*. Again, I've got the 4.7L so things may be different. I'd be worried if temps hit 230* and at 250*, damage begins.

 

Hello, If you're removingthe factory trans cooler, I'll pay top dollar for the 2 short lines that run from the factory cooler to the main line behind the radiator. Please don't cut them up! Let me know if you're interested in selling them.

 

Well, new CSF 1.67" 2 row radiator installed, also added "Purple Ice" to the coolant to try and help. Next time I pull the trailer I'll find out if that worked. Also added the SuperChips Dashpaq for monitoring the transmission temps, more accurate coolant temps and the tow/haul tune. Have done 2 transmission drains with new filters by removing the pan, added new pan with drain plug and a Neodymium magnet to the outside of the pan near to plug so I can pull the magnet when draining trans fluid to get any metal shavings flushed. Added Lucas trans fluid additive and Lucas oil stabilizer. Been a long damn day. Transmission seems to be slipping abit less and fine tuned the fan, it now kicks on at 195 and off at 185 (according to dashpaq numbers) the 180 tstat apparently opens around 185-190, again according to the numbers from the dashpaq.

Only thing left to do is add 4.10 gears at the rear along with new diff fluid.. then towing 5klbs+ shouldn't be a big deal for the truck. If it still is, I'm going back to a clutch fan and adding a big *** trans cooler (depending on which may be an issue). Lol

I'll update if the new rad with the royal purple additive in the coolant helped at all.

 

Wow, that shroud is HORRIBLY designed.

The CSF should work out alot better.

I use Stats from NAPA. I can confirm using UltraGage that they open at 185 and close at 175 or so - at least that's where I saw the temperature swings on the V6.

I don't think the stock kegger has a spot to add a second water probe in the bridge. Most aftermarket ones (m1, hughes, ect) do. I could be wrong tho, i think some earlier years used dual sensors.

 

97 and earlier used two sensors. The boss for the second sensor is still in the manifold, just needs drilled and tapped for the sensor. (pipe thread I do believe.)