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Read a lot of threads where it was done... 2 decades back... but never saw anything negative about them as the miles piled up. As part of the "new to me procedure", all the fluids are going to get swapped. In the process the plan is to drain out the coolant and inspect for hoses that need replacing and swap in a new 180* t-stat with a bleed hole drilled. (unless I can find a 190* stat that will fit)
So relating to the cooling system questions...
1) Did anything negative come from running the 180* stat?
2) Fan clutch delete, living in the PNW temps rarely get over 90 so I'm going to delete the fan clutch. Did anything negative ever pop up from the fan clutch delete?
The plan would be to swap in a Volvo fan to run on the OEM control signals and figure out a way to get the motor running at 190~195* moving forward
3) The OEM t-stat had a bypass plug on it, any issues running the bypass port open all the time?
4) Anyone running HPT with the 4.7? If so are you able to control the fan on temp?
If you don't tune for it, running a 180 stat isn't a good idea. Tends to confuse the PCM.
I don't know if "just" the aux fan will be adequate to the task..... Overheating the 4.7 generally leads to rather expensive repairs. Now, replacing the mechanical fan with a meaner electric would work fairly well.
If you don't tune for it, running a 180 stat isn't a good idea. Tends to confuse the PCM.
I don't know if "just" the aux fan will be adequate to the task..... Overheating the 4.7 generally leads to rather expensive repairs. Now, replacing the mechanical fan with a meaner electric would work fairly well.
the plan is to do custom tuning via hp tuners . once i get the hardware (current setup does not work) the threads i iiead had nothing but good things to say, but they all disappeared out of the thread.
the volvo will work fine, would do a custom shroud and controller to get it kicked on at 195ish or so.
will definitely do it if i commit to keeping it long term, it is becoming a challenge to get it rock solid... love challenges.
I think I explained it to you in another thread already. Don't run cooler stat for 4.7L. Run a quality synthetic and keep the temp as it was intended.
Re-read the thread an I did not see anything related to a 180* stat, just the brief comment to keep temp as intended with no details. I am going to do it and will regulate the temp with airflow across the radiator (I already do this with the ram but the goal there is to get it to 200 and keep it there, which is tough even with a 200* stat...), 190* I think would be ideal vs the 204~206 where it is running now.
If HPT gives me the option to kick on the fans at any given temp, that would be ideal. The volvo fan is a 2 speed fan and I have no doubts the low speed would be more than adequate for keeping things in check. I have 2 on the ram and on low it is overkill for the area I'm in.
Re-read the thread an I did not see anything related to a 180* stat, just the brief comment to keep temp as intended with no details.
Originally Posted by Dodgevity
The fill cap is not really a good indicator of sludge on these engine. They tend develop a yellow goo underneath, especially in the winter. This is due to them sitting so far up off the engine that oil mist/vapors tend to cool and coagulate in the fill cone. This one in the pic is pretty bad (random internet pic), but this and smaller oil passages is why I'd never run a cooler thermostat or conventional oil.
I recently had a thread where I contemplated removing the clutch fan and going with electric. In the process of checking things out, I found out that my condenser e-fan wasn't working all along. Pretty sure it hasn't worked in many years, so all I had was the clutch fan. When I put a live data scanner on the truck for the first time, it was running anywhere from 213 to 226 degrees all along (maybe more). All those years in ATL stop and go traffic, with AC running and depending on only the clutch fan. Well the 4.7 is running strong and approaching 330K now. I replaced the e-fan and called it a day.
I recently had a thread where I contemplated removing the clutch fan and going with electric. In the process of checking things out, I found out that my condenser e-fan wasn't working all along. Pretty sure it hasn't worked in many years, so all I had was the clutch fan. When I put a live data scanner on the truck for the first time, it was running anywhere from 213 to 226 degrees all along (maybe more). All those years in ATL stop and go traffic, with AC running and depending on only the clutch fan. Well the 4.7 is running strong and approaching 330K now. I replaced the e-fan and called it a day.
Yup, blind as a bat... thanks for highlighting it.
You CT graph brings this to mind...One thing found on the Ram (thanks to another members recommendation) was the engine sensors, especially the hall effect sensors on the crank & cams will degrade over time causing a subtle decrease in performance. After swapping out the crank & cam sensor on the Ram, had to go back and re-tune it as the timing was now off enough to cause timing rattle. I would bet the 4.7 I have would benefit from a fresh set of sensors. Back to your graph on CTs... wow that is high...
If you're planning to run a Volvo dual speed fan, Volvo was owned by Ford for a while - make sure on how the Volvo fan is controlled. If it's the same as a Ford fan, you will need to use a Ford-specific control unit for it or you'll burn it out. For the shroud, try to set the fan at least 2 inches from the radiator, and enclose the entire body within it. Too close and you won't get the airflow across it.
If you're going to run a cooler thermostat, don't do it unless you tune for it. Otherwise you may find yourself open loop all the time, with a 5-7MPG reduction. If you are subject to emissions testing, you'll fail the test. On the bypass, why do you want to bypass the thermostat?
If you're planning to run a Volvo dual speed fan, Volvo was owned by Ford for a while - make sure on how the Volvo fan is controlled. If it's the same as a Ford fan, you will need to use a Ford-specific control unit for it or you'll burn it out. For the shroud, try to set the fan at least 2 inches from the radiator, and enclose the entire body within it. Too close and you won't get the airflow across it.
If you're going to run a cooler thermostat, don't do it unless you tune for it. Otherwise you may find yourself open loop all the time, with a 5-7MPG reduction. If you are subject to emissions testing, you'll fail the test. On the bypass, why do you want to bypass the thermostat?
Running the 180* t-stat
