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Taken today. I had wiped the cap off on 12/13 after taking the pics I posted. I did not clean down in the funnel though. Didn't accumulate any emulsion on the cap, just water condensation. It's been unseasonably warm in ATL, but I've been off all week and driving short trips.
Taken today. I had wiped the cap off on 12/13 after taking the pics I posted. I did not clean down in the funnel though. Didn't accumulate any emulsion on the cap, just water condensation. It's been unseasonably warm in ATL, but I've been off all week and driving short trips.
Thanks for posting the pic... I cant tell, do you have the pcv attached to the fill tube?
Also, do you still have the oem breather setup with the 2 breather pieces on each valve cover?
I measured the valve cover temp today, 120*+ after a 9ish mile drive and they are not the plastic ones.
Final update... there are approx 2000 miles now since this started (will double check) and this is what I saw today. This is after 7~8 days of temps down into the 20's for highs, then back up into the 40's. I finally wiped it all down after the pics were taken. I may try a few things with the cover over the cap and monitor it. I will most likely re-route the pcv to the newer setup down the road.
Edit: 1846 miles on receipt from 12/11 so most a tad bit less then that for the entire thread.
Last edited by steve05ram360; 01-06-2022 at 08:51 PM.
Hmm... I don't think the wrap is helping things, maybe making things worse by robbing it of a large heat source, which is heat rising from the engine.
I think Dodge should have designed the cap to have an extension which goes down into the funnel and seals it off.... like an extended stopper in a kitchen sink. That way the moisture and vapors are not coming up into the cooler cone in the first place. If you think about it, the thing is nothing more than a permanently mounted funnel, so it's really not needed. Should have just been a regular cap and you stick your own funnel in, with the PCV valve somewhere else.
Thanks for challenging it... it is appreciated. Went and dug deeper & grabbed temp & humidity data for 12/11-1/6, Think I need the dew point.... my goal is to minimize the amount of condensation that occurs in the tube & on the cap. Pretty much I dont want to have to clean the crap out and I want to minimize the amount that drops down into the oil.
Pics over almost 1 month & 1800+ miles
Cleaned the day before with approx 80ish miles since cleaning... 12/12, it is clear in this pic the snot is accumulating all around the bottom of the fill tube.
The next day... 12/13
12/16, 240 miles
12/25, miles now unknown, could figure it out tho if needed, cap cover added here... no commute to work starting 12/24 thru 1/3, trips include but not limited to 40-60 mi RT runs to various stores on same trip.
I'll give you an idea to stop sludge in the oil fill cone.
Remove the baffle, then line the bottom of the cone with plastic cling wrap (this will be your mold), then squeeze in a bunch of oil resistant gasket maker, such as Permatex black. Bend a wire at right angle and insert into the stuff before it dries. A long skinny bolt will work as well - head down in mix, but you will have to support it till it dries, so it doesn't bottom out. This will be your handle. Should be long enough to reach, but not interfere with the cap closing. Once it dries you should have a nice oil resistant rubber plug for the cone which will stop the oil vapors from wafting up to the cooler reaches.
I'll give you an idea to stop sludge in the oil fill cone.
Remove the baffle, then line the bottom of the cone with plastic cling wrap (this will be your mold), then squeeze in a bunch of oil resistant gasket maker, such as Permatex black. Bend a wire at right angle and insert into the stuff before it dries. A long skinny bolt will work as well - head down in mix, but you will have to support it till it dries, so it doesn't bottom out. This will be your handle. Should be long enough to reach, but not interfere with the cap closing. Once it dries you should have a nice oil resistant rubber plug for the cone which will stop the oil vapors from wafting up to the cooler reaches.
yeah but that can be mitigated by relocating the pcv...
@Dodgevity not a bad idea... could make that plug with a larger 90* piece of plastic tube and set it so it is mated up near the PCV valve so when it is under vacuum, it draws thru the tube. Then you have a built in handle to remove the plug @ oil change time...