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What was in there to begin with, the orange stuff? HeyYou is right, you don't want to mix them. It's cheap insurance to drain it all, then add one type of coolant. I run the cheap Walmart SuperTech green concentrate mixed 50/50 with distilled water (never use tap water). The Mopar orange is actually better because it contains silicates which (hopefully) seal any minor head gasket/surface imperfections, but I've already sealed mine, permanently, I hope.
Jack up the rear end when draining. Jack up the front end when bleeding. Keep heater temp **** set to full hot when doing both.
Reaching thru this hole in bumper valance gives you access to the radiator petcock.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Mar 17, 2022 at 05:50 PM.
This is the top of the radiator - driver side - coming from the reservoir - that pipe doesn’t have any hose connected to it, I’m guessing that’s not normal? Lol
Also, noticed some leaking coming from where the fan bolts into the engine - is that the water pump in there?
I flushed the coolant, gotta fill it back up. I changed the oil.
I rented block tester today, haven’t used it yet. Your suppose to use it when the engine is running but with no oil pressure I’m nervous to start it. I’m gonna get the oil pressure tester and check the pressure.
I couldn’t get the bleeder valve loose, it’s rusted. Gonna have to give it more elbow grease.
What’s weird - is the zero oil pressure came right after I did a radiator pressure test. So whatever may have been going on - that test either made it worse or caused another issue.
Last edited by Healthylivingmbs; Mar 17, 2022 at 10:35 PM.
This is the top of the radiator - driver side - coming from the reservoir - that pipe doesn’t have any hose connected to it, I’m guessing that’s not normal? Lol
Also, noticed some leaking coming from where the fan bolts into the engine - is that the water pump in there?
I flushed the coolant, gotta fill it back up. I changed the oil.
I rented block tester today, haven’t used it yet. Your suppose to use it when the engine is running but with no oil pressure I’m nervous to start it. I’m gonna get the oil pressure tester and check the pressure.
I couldn’t get the bleeder valve loose, it’s rusted. Gonna have to give it more elbow grease.
What’s weird - is the zero oil pressure came right after I did a radiator pressure test. So whatever may have been going on - that test either made it worse or caused another issue.
Your pic shows the coolant expansion tank. It is vented, so that's normal. No hose.
Yes, that is the water pump behind fan. You'll need to change it if leaking. Keep bolts in order.
You'll have to run the engine either way when testing HG and oil pressure.
I've never been able to break my bleeder valve free. Leave the cap off while bleeding instead.
On the oil pressure (probably already mentioned)... put a gauge on it and warm it up to operating temp, here is a pic of mine. My issue was the sensor, swapped it and all was good.
And lastly... I have a bad radiator in there right now that leaks with the 20 psi cap. Coolant loss on every drive. Dropped down to a 13 psi cap found at orielies AP store & now no leak. I get to swap the radiator when I am ready (prob this weekend).
Also, drill a bleed hole in the t-stat, smallest drill bit you have, something like 1/16" works, never have an issue with trapped air.
Last edited by steve05ram360; Mar 18, 2022 at 06:25 PM.
You will need it filled with oil. 40PSI at idle is around what your looking for. Also the gauge on the dash is not an accurate measurement. Its just a simple on or off with a couple levels. If the test shows less than 30 you have either a blockage/restriction before the oil pressure switch, or a bad oil pump. Did the engine sound really rough when it was running? If not you almost certainly have atleast minimal oil pressure and its just a bad gauge or low pressure. The oil pumps on these are pretty good so I'm not expecting that. I would be betting on a bad switch. They are the more common failure.
We’ve had some rain so haven’t had a chance to do much. Changed the oil pressure sensor - no change in oil pressure. Auto stores don’t have the right adapters that fit to rent so autozone ordered a special one, should be in tomorrow. I did see some white smoke, maybe smelled coolant from the exhaust for the quick minute that I started it up - I’m still gonna do an oil pressure test… you mention that I’m aiming for 40 psi… could low oil pressure reading be the result of a failed head gasket too? I’m also noticing a little l coolant leaking from the water pump area as well.
the FSM says 4 psi minimum fully warmed up at idle... Pic is for the 4.7 engine... I would also run hot shots stiction eliminator in the motor at the next oil change.
Ugh. 4 PSI?? So far as I am concerned, that is WAY to low..... Even GM said 7. Which ain't much better.... Really need the mechanical gauge on there, and see if there is any pressure at all.
The 40 psi I was referring to is a basic cruising range. It can vary quite a bit between engines, condition, and oil viscosity. I can't believe the FSM says 4 PSI at idle though... I doubt the headgasket is directly responsible for the low oil pressure. Its probably just a bad switch honestly.
Sharing my pressure readings from 2015 as reference. Truck had roughly 260K at the time.
Originally Posted by Dodgevity
Well guys, looks like I'm in the clear. I installed the Mopar oil pressure sender this evening and also checked the pressure with a gauge. When I removed the old sender, I saw that it was leaking oil.
At idle, roughly 650-700 rpm, I was at 48 PSI (below 4 is low). At 3000 RPM, It was 90 PSI (I believe low is 25 psi). The 90 PSI is probably less than it should have been, because I was an idiot. I had the gauge's pressure hose too near the crank pulley and the drive belt burned right thru it. While I was in the truck gassing it to 3K RPM, oil was spewing out the hose and it was still reading 90 psi. What a holy mess I discovered. Had to go get some engine degreaser and wash down the engine.
Ah well, I'm happy it wasn't the alternative. The pressure needle is now steady just above halfway pt.
Thanks, all.
PS: The 4.7 oil pressure sender is just above the oil filter. I removed the filter and was able to extract it using a small pair of channel locks. None of my fixed wrenches fit, as it was too big.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Mar 24, 2022 at 08:59 PM.
Even GM said 7. Which ain't much better.... Really need the mechanical gauge on there, and see if there is any pressure at all.
