Why... Just why... such an easy swap made so difficult by a-holes taking shortcuts.

Looks like someone put epoxy on the bolt, I got 2 options, 1) cut it off or 2) try to knock as much of the epoxy off the pin as I can then use the impact driver on the bolt. Either way I get to stop for at least 90 minutes for a meeting, then either dive back into it to try and chip away at it to free the pin or go to store for a sawzall blade that is up to the task... I do need to get a ball joint press, so I have to go out anyways.

 

Grinder with a cutoff wheel... pavement sucks thread suggestion, did not think of that

 

That looks like just a bunch of mud and rust building up. A heavy duty ratchet and cheater pipe MAY get it loose. Penetrant is a definite need there. I have a really large nut splitter if the cheater wont do the trick.

 

It was not mud & rust... I think it was that steel epoxy. When I hit it with the grinder it cut thru it like it was epoxy. It took less than 5 minutes to get off with the grinder cutting that crap & the cotter pin off, then putting a wrench on it.

 

thought I'd post up an update...

this swap turned into a CF... ball joints fought me, tore a TRE boot during disassembly (will swap both in the near future) and lastly, the bleeder valves snapped off in the caliper (siezed and they will not come out). All that is left to do is bleed the brakes, torque the axle nuts and put the wheels back on & on the ground.

Since the brakes cant be bled the normal way, and there are no calipers in the local yard, going to give this a shot... push out the pistons as far as they can go w/o popping them out, fill up the caliper with brake fluid and re-attach the banjo bolt, tighten it down then have a 2nd person hit the brake pedal when signaled. I will crack the banjo back open to bleed the air out of the brake lines, tighten it down and call it done. Perfect?? Not so much but it will have to do for now. I will roll with it until I find a pair at the yards...

The lesson learned here is, before pulling them off, verify the bleeders are free and can be loosened. Kinda did not expect the bleeders to break, the calipers looked like they were replaced at the last pad swap (pads were worn though), they were pretty clean.

with all that said... truck has been parked for a couple of weeks now and the Ram is called back to service (even with the bad transfer case bearing... I am able to drive around it). Last visit to the yards netted me an ECU harness pigtale & obd port plug for the HPT bench setup. Have that to work on as well.

 

Had you not unhooked the hose, they wouldn't need bleeding. Unfortunately, your calipers are headed south. When bleeders break off, the caliper or wheel cylinder is rusted inside. Bite the bullet and just get new calipers. They will be sticking before long. Brakes are not something you want to cheap out on.

 

the hose had to be disconnected... no way to put the new caliper on w/o it.

 

Okay, I'm missing something here. The caliper you were putting on had the bleeder break off? Are you putting a used caliper on to replace your old one? Have you tried to compress it with a pair of slip joint pliers before you put it on? If the donor vehicle wasn't driven much on salt, the calipers will look pretty good, but if the brakes on the donor vehicle were never flushed to get moisture out, they may be on the verge of locking up. Brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) is extremely hygroscopic. It will suck moisture out of the air.

I have rebuilt calipers before, but they are NOT easy to do. Wheel cylinders, you just need a hone and rubber kit. Calipers require a dedicated hone and you have to be able to recondition the piston.

 

Yeah, I am thinking he was trying to install a used caliper.

I agree with Grouch. Just install new ones. They are pretty cheap.

 

The plan was to make it work, then swap out the brakes for new later in the year. Cost of the new brake swap is approx $250 + shipping after core returns, thru rockauto.com. Get it working 1st, then shop new 2nd.

Another thing I have learned is the Dak & Durango calipers & rotors carry a different part number, and 2wd vs 4wd have the same caliper. There is a 2wd Durango in the yard that should work.