I didnt have a lot of confidence in this one ..

 

That did it🤘
Thanks

What are the ft lbs for that huge bolt later an the timing cover?
an should i use medium locktite?
I saw some on a few bolts .

 

You probably saw sealer on some of the threads, as they go into the water jacket. I usually just dab some RTV on those. As for torque? No clue. Should be a resource online somewhere that will tell you torque specs though.

 

Is that that little 1 inch thread plug ? Water jacket bolt your talking about ..


No i saw some white thread tape in both that little one an the middle of a longer one on timing cover..

So go ahead an change that cap out ,whats the red stuff with it ..? A sealer for inside cap

 

If it ain't leakin', and ain't in the way, I'd just leave that there. I think it does into into the water jacket though, but, it's been a while since I had the timing cover off of a magnum engine.

 

I see a grove in it but not too bad cover piece looks like itd be really tight..
does this look good enough not to cap?.




Its ripped i guess..a part of oil pan seal..i guess ill have to get a new oil pan seal..i doubt rtv will hold up?


I put the mark on the balancer to TDC..take it off .. AN i look at chain an dot on wheel an its 180 the other way at top..shouldnt it be in center facing inside.It really is tight. im debating on changing it.

 

RTV might deal with the gasket, but, if it doesn't, you get to replace it anyway... and do that job again. They aren't expensive, I'd just replace it.

Cam gear goes around once, for each TWO revolutions of the crankshaft, currently, I do believe that #1 will be in firing position, when the gears are dot to dot, its in the second half of the firing order. If you want to turn the crank, to get the cam gear dot down on the bottom, it sure makes replacing them easier.

 

Yes i definately will turn the crank manually to get it to line the dots at bottom .With oil drained for days do i need to add any or will it be ok to do w no oil ,though im sure a thin film remained. ? .
Any tips to keeping the inside position exact on change out of chain an sprocket.after lining dots to center ?. maybe stick driver in to hold an a marking at sprocket/ chain?
Got cap on..an seal in on cover.

Not crazy about that grove at top..but cap went in good.I used that red stuff inside cap. Any known problems to look out for ?

 

You can turn the engine by hand to your hearts content, and it won't hurt anything.

I have never used anything to hold the cam or crank in place when changing the timing set on an OHV engine. Overhead cams are an entirely different story.

 

I see the timing mark on that cover an the mark on the dampener/balancer ..are thise references for only when running with a light testing it?

I have put the dampener on see pics an is at tdc on those 2 marks but that timing dot on the sprocket is directly at top ...not pointing at middle..

I thought that dot was to be facing middle when tdc lines are together at that marking on dampener/ cover?




I had lined that up before taking cover off


i also pulled plug on #1 an it feels like pison is at top.

Do i just need to turn it another full clockwise turn or so back to same TDC mark at cover-dampener an it will rotate that 180 degrees ~~ Then i can remove sprocket?