Got it on..
ANYBODY HAVING THIS PROBLEM SHOULD REMOVE THAT LIL PIECE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TENTIONER.. black 2 inch guard AN ALSO USE A PRY BAR on left AT THAT PIN WIRE YOU PULL [ WHEN U GET NEW TENTIONER USE C clamp an put bigger wire pin in an twist for leverage .
AN THEN YOU CAN PRY OUT A BIT FOR MORE CHAIN. SPACE..
Also
A great tool to make is a longer bolt that fits cam shaft an the socket thats the exact same size as hole an tighten it on as a temporary guide ...Then use a piece of pipe around that bolt ,an after you get key lined up ,tap evenly in with wood..adjusting bottom a little then top till both are centered an in place..
then put black part,2 inch, bk on right side..release pressure on wire at tentioner an cut thick wire al remove ..
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgeforum.com-vbulletin/2000x901/20220411_144337_4e8e42f14bca061dad0899db91c2494048 9467bb.jpg


thicker wire an pryable .

 

Hey, if it works, that is all you can ask for.

 

Will this slight difference i noticed on the dots on new sprocket throw it off ? I doubt i turned the crank or cam but its not as aligned as original parts..?
I dread taking it off for 1 tooth ..
Will i need to realign em ? an by turning top cam clockwise to get dots more exact?

 

You are off a tooth. Need to correct that.

 

Yep i thought so...
ill put the old sprocket on an realign top sprocket- dot to dot ..than put only the new sprockets on[ no chain] an be sure the marks are Exactly the same on both ..mark the key, .then put new sprocket on with the chain...
An ur right That chain is a LOT tighter,an that may have factored it

..but now i know a technique to install it easier.
Is it best to turn top cam clockwise, no chain, with the sprocket till its back to "dot to dot"?

 

You don't have to move anything very much, so, move whatever you need to, to get the dots lined up.

Doing the timing chain and gears on my old 96 5.9 was probably the best thing I did to it. It made a MAJOR difference in how the engine ran, and power output. But, mine had 180K+ miles on it too....

 

Thanks again

[ I think i fixed it by rotating crank after post but want to reconfirm ]

I bumped it a few times..
decided to look at distributor cap an its at 6 not 1 ,Will this cause any trouble ?
earlier post you said to
rotate the dampener a turn to mark dots ..so it would be correct before change.
Before i bumped it 2 times[ no turn over] dots were aligned an it was tdc on balancer.

Before i even took things off. in the beginning I 1st put #1 cylinder to top ,an felt it .. the dots were not in the center -that top cam was at top.
Then I turned crank a turn to get dots lined..

..it was maybe180° off ?

update - I rotated crank till 1st cylinder was atop at #1 an on 1 at distributor .

I guess its in compression stroke now not exhaust?

Any info is appreciated.

Im gonna bump it again then maybe turn it over unless theres anything I should check 1st..

 

With cylinder 1 at TDC, the cam dot will be at the top. Turn the crank one revolution to get the dot at the bottom, 1 will still be at TDC, but, on the exhaust stroke.

 

No dots to see now just TDC on outside cover/ balancer an piston/ rotor..
Ty again..

I got it running earlier--STARTED RIGHT UP!.🤘.Before start,Ihad to use plug hole an long rod to see it move an turn it an watch distributor..an rotor- till at #1.. Internet forums tell you everything an some utubes!


I had been bleeding system an looking at pump...

Have to change that darn oil pan gasket likely though..[ as u stated]
Do the front 2 pan bolts have a nut atop pan there ..an are they to be 16 ft lbs.? I did use rtv on both sides of that curved broke gasket part though.. no go!

 

No nuts on those bolts. They thread right into the cover.