Somehow the rear part of the fairly new oil pan gasket was hanging half way off.I..It seperated there where those sharp curves are at ...is there any way i can get away with lowering pan a tad ,an a cleanup reseal with it 'using black rtv ,especially where it pinches corner?
i dread another full oil pan gasket replacement!

Thanks

 

Reminds me of when my escapes PCV valve failed... Half the gaskets were pushed right out. I wouldn't think it to be a good idea to do it like that. It might work but your going to have a hell of a time cleaning the surface anyways. Plus there is probably RTV chunks in the pan that need to get pulled. Did you put the blob of RTV at the corners when you installed it?

 

Yes i used a small amount at those corners..Looks like its still on that rubber

 

Bite the bullet, drop the pan, install a new gasket. Otherwise, you will be dealing with leaks forever. It sucks, but, there it is. Don't over-torque the pan bolts.

 

This will be temporary.Will that pressure just bust it out again even if I use rtv along the long curve ...before putting the rubber bk in ?
What causes that -,the corners maybe too tight ?
Note that flywheel cover is still off but i doubt that factos it.

Is there ANY method of getting the new one in without jacking up engine?

 

You got nothing to lose. If this doesn't work, you can drop the pan anyway.

Drain out the oil and loosen all bolts so the pan hangs. Remove the bolts on the broken gasket section. Dampen a rag with brake cleaner and drape it over a putty knife, then use to the clean both sides of the empty gap. Repeat till clean. User Permatex black (oil resistant) with the tip cut at the right angle and squeeze in enough to coat the mating surface of the broken area, but not so much it drains down into the pan. Squeeze it around/over the holes, making sure it meets and slightly overlaps both ends of the broken gasket. Now here is a crucial part.... barely finger tighten the pan and let it sit for 45 minutes before fully tightening. This will allow the permatex to firm up while retaining thickness and not just get squished everywhere. There is a little extra dry time added in cause it's going to have to overcome a gap. Wait 24 hours before adding back the oil and starting.

If it doesn't work, cuss loudly while saying "I should have listened to HeyYou." If it works, Dodgevity takes praises and paypal. LOL

 

Thanks ..i was gonna do that w old piece,so only use rtv at top areas where it meets,none on the curve sides o old gasket ? What is the torque on those bolts via ft lbs an is it a criss cross pattern?

Like u said I got nothin to loose ..

Ill keep u posted!

 

This is very odd ..I jacked up the motor an looked at pan an that blue designed rubber..felpro, you see all along the bottom of the gaskey is 100% still intack!
Is the piece I saw detatched seperated from blue part maybe?

If I could open new one an look exactly how its made in that would help but they dont let u in store.
Is it still possible to clean up that blue edge an somehow reattach the loose piece? Never seen it seperate ..
Also is there thin metal inside? I felt a bit of wire like at corner..
....

I am stumped ..Do you have any pics of that gasket close up ?..There at that end where that piece attaches .

 

Im just gonna replace it..if the inside metal mesh was felt its likely toast ....an applying rtv to that detatched rubber piece an the blue seal thats still intack likely wont hold up..




Still not sure why it seperated!

 

You have the 4.7l right? Maybe the PCV is stuck closed and your pressurizing the engine? Could also have been slightly pushed out when it was installed. Although it would be pretty hard to miss that.