Well today I got to put more time in on the cooling system "going through" since there was a good leak around the water pump seal.
So with having to drain coolant along with no real clue to the age of other cooling system parts Ive been rounding up hoses and such.
I got lucky to be given three gallons of never opened coolant!

I had flushed the radiator last week. Today I was able to continue flushing other areas. I have access to free 55 gallon plastic barrels from
time to time so I cut one off for a larger diameter and high capacity drain pan. I happen to have four brass garden hose male ends to 1/2" NPT
male fittings left over from last years water to the house disaster to establish temporary service. I also have a hand full of washing machine
hoses Ive collected over time. I made up adapters where I could connect the washer hoses from the garden hose then drain to the extra
plastic drum. on hand.

I have a garden hose spray nozzle with threads on the discharge spout where I can quickly connect one of the washer hoses then put the
other in the full drum. Its a quick changeover with the hoses to reverse the flush flow that I saw recommended in a video. I did the heater
core then the block last. I had not removed the water pump at this point figuring flushing with it in place made better sense than to install the
new one to possibly contaminate during flushing the block. I flush in both directions using the radiator hose at the block connections. I was also
able to use one of the heater hose paths to flush through the block as well.

Im watching the flush water discharge through the block to my drain drum to go clear. I decide at this point to remove the water pump. This action
has shown two things I want to ask about. First I use a long 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the bolts. I go to each one applying slow pressure to break
them free. One bolt seems a bit snug at this point even though its turning but I am just applying a slight amount of rotation to then move on to another bolt.
At this point all of the bolts but that one will turn with ease, finger loose.

After loosening all the bolts and the contrary one a little way I tug on the pump body and it releases from the timing cover it mounts on. I see fluid coming
out, looks like the color of coolant. I have my super capacity drain pan in place! When I flushed in opposite directions it ran clear before removing the pump then fluid in the pump
cavity drained as coolant when the pump pulled away. Is there any kind of flow chart for this block available? What direction is the flow from the radiator? I know the pumps in parts listings
are noted as reversed so whats the clock direction of this pump when running?

Now for the sluggish to release bolt. I went to work and got a "loan a can" of Kroil penetrating oil. Loosening the other bolts along with what gap I could create
from backing out the tight bolt just a little bit, I applied Kroil in the gap. I applied more later and Im going to go back out in a bit to apply more to sit over night.
Whats the best method to continue to remove this bolt? When I apply the Kroil Ive been making a slight rotation away from removing direction to maybe open
the threads a bit to hopefully allow better Kroil penetration? Im really concerned with this since Ive always been leary of bolts threaded into aluminium.

If this bolts continues to snug during full extraction, whats the remedy here? If the bolt threads are eat up then most likely the mating threads have been eaten to
pooh as well. Thats about my blinkety blankety luck........

 

Not much you can do other than just keep pulling the bolts. Remember to keep them in order. You don't have to alternate when pulling. Just when tightening, to keep things level. If you flushed with tap water, make your final flushes with distilled water before you add coolant. If you're mixing concentrated coolant, use distilled as well. Also, don't use just any coolant.

 

Ive been pouring distilled in behind the hose water.

The coolant I have say all makes and models on the jugs. I asked about that in another thread
a while back with mixed responses.

So far I have left all bolts loose in the hole, unremoved until that last stubborn on comes out. I hope thats not
a show stopper!

 

Shouldn't be. Try working the reluctant one back and forth some, see if it loosens up.

 

Was able to remove bolt and the threads look ok. It’s one of the long bolts on the group. It as the other long bolts look to had some kind of thread sealant applied. I could see a yellowed looking goo in the threads beyond where the mated thread stops. What’s the best thread sealer for this application?

another question. What’s the bolt torque for the water pump bolts and the thermostat housing bolts? Looking online I see some different noted values. One shows 43ft lbs, another showing 40.

I took some pics of the screens for the two sites but they’re too large to attach.

 

The referenced numbers are for the water pump. I haven’t looked for stat housing torque yet.

 

I just use some RTV on the threads. Works fine.

 

I have anti seize for the other bolts. Do the stat housing bolts need sealant or is anti seize ok for those two?

do you have any accurate torque info?