Have a 1993 Dakota 4WD 3.9L V6 purchased new, drove till 1997 (purchased a 1997 1500 Ram Club Cab 4WD with 360 and towing package) turning the Dakota over to the wife. Purchased her a 2001 Ram 4WD 2500 with Cummins and the 1993 Dakota joined a 1991 Dakota as a fleet vehicle along with a Dodge/Mitsubishi D50 plus some big commercial trucks. Put 420,000 miles on my 1997 Ram and it's parked awaiting a decision on it's destiny. Wife put a quarter million miles on her 2001 before flipping it end over end clipping a utility pole which put it in a roll (seven full revolutions) killing it and is now driving a "like new" 2007 2WD 1500 with a Hemi. Except for big commercial trucks I am a Dodge person and when the 1997 Ram 1500 became a maintenance hog crawled back in the 1993 Dakota waiting for the then promised re-release of Dakota mid size truck line.

Almost thirty years later and just under 1/2 million miles realized Dodge was not bringing back a midsize truck (working mostly on side of road need truck can get fully off the pavement) ordered a 2022 Chevy Colorado 4WD with every heavy duty option (took seven months for Chevy to build), factory 1.5" lift kit, bigger than stock engine (345 HP V6), every towing option, skid plates front to back, rock sliders/steps, burliest brush guard, etc and everytime taken it off the pavement something gets broken or bent. Entire body is beer can thin aluminum and plastic so no matter what you add to protect it unless build a steel cage have had front trim pieces broken driving through tall grass and this in a year only have 6,000 miles on it as crawl in my 1\2 million miles Dakota for work.

Have made the decision to "restore" the 1993 Dakota 4WD V6 and either park or sell the new Colorado hopefully before it hits 10,000 miles. Checked with dealer and "trade in" on the Colorado is within a couple thousand of delivered price. So now to figure out what all needs done to the Dakota (short cab with 6.5' bed) which still runs fine but many parts are at end of their service life. It has original tie rods/ball joints/etc because from day one every zirc got greased on 5,000 mile service interval. At 420,000 miles the K&N air filter came apart and per their "lifetime warranty" sent a new one, figure it was cleaned almost 100 times as was cleaned every 5,000 miles like oil changes and grease.

Rebuilt front/rear differentials, installed new rear axle bushings, front CV axles, new clutch and shocks on all four corners less than 50,000 miles ago. Front end is "in spec" according to alignment shop but is really sloppy to me plus all the rubber stuff is cracked. Plan is start with a 14 piece Front End/Steering kit replacing all the front end giblets along with upper and lower control arms and a complete neoprene rubber bushing kit for sway bars, body mounts, bump stops and anything else that looks worn. Not pulling body off frame but will go on lift and once get all parts removed (plan to remove drive shaft and take for balancing/service) going to pressure wash the spray underside with undercoating before reassemble. Considering converting rear brakes to disk but finding a used rear disk brake set and necessary parts from junkyard, anyone done this? The rear drums have never worked well but not buying a $1,000 conversion kit.

While doing the underside considering upgraded front brake calipers, two piston OEM quality not some Brembo or supercar parts along with upgraded aftermarket rotors. Truck has only has rotors replaced twice when got rock hung in caliper or packed with mud and damaged them. Normally when swap pads pull rotors and break the glaze using a D/A sander and put back on. Know a mechanic that does the same and has a set of rotors on one truck that are still straight and stop at 1/2 million miles. Know current calipers and rear drums have at least 200,000 since last replacement so it's time. Know I have replaced the rubber sections of brake lines at least once but can't remember how long so all four corners will get rubber lines replaced. If anyone has a trick that allows the rear adjusters to work properly and rear drums to grab would not mind keeping them but for life of truck had to keep brake spoon in console and snug rear adjusters between 5,000 mile service interval frequently.

Have always used "Sticky Red" synthetic grease anywhere requiring grease and even most shops have no idea how many grease zircs are on a Dakota. If they work out of a pit will miss some can only see from above and other hide based on rotation of drive shaft, etc. Don't plan to part the transmission/engine since under 50k since last clutch but going to change all fluids in manual transmission and transfer case. Going to pull some parts like cross member know is bent and either beat on it then paint or replace. Will change fluids in both differentials even though not been many miles since rebuilt them. Used NAPA front CV axles about same time, wondering if should pull and replace with TrakMotive or other "better than OEMs"? Within a week of warranty expiring I neutered the antilock proportioning valve as loaded trucks didn't stop with heavy loads and early antilock brakes. What am I missing on the underside as a "must do"?

On the engine did a compression check and all six cylinders were fine, even had a mechanic check it to be sure, he said if just saw the compression gauge and results instead of whole truck would say under 100,000 miles. Plan is to pull oil pan, replace rod bearings (maybe crank bearings) from underneath while replacing oil pump. Did MVAC with new compressor, expansion valve, swap from R12 to R135a less than two years ago so unless I fubar something A/C is o.k. plan to replace timing chain, swap in a "performance" harmonic balancer, water pump and pulley set while deleting the facctory fan for an electric fan plus taking radiator to shop for checking. Heads are coming off and going to machine shop then plan to add Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers to add a little pep back as sure cam is worn but if dig that deep pulling the motor and don't want to. A look in valve covers with inspection camera and top of motor is clean from constant oil changes and nothing but premium gas from day one.

In addition to the roller rocker arms plan to find a nice used throttle body from a 5.9L engine, tweak it with some upgrades and feed more cold air to top of engine which should help perk it up getting more air/fuel. Of course new plugs, wires, distributor cap, etc. If anyone has advice on bargain way to get hotter spark than a standard tune up using Bosh platinum plugs reason for topic is getting all the advice I can get. Truck had a high amp aftermarket alternator installed when warranty expired that died a while back and had to stick a NAPA replacement in on side of road so will be installing a new high amp if alternator shop won't/can't rewind the older high amp unit. Have two factory sized batteries under the hood, two 28 amp/hour telecom batteries (very compact and lots of energy) so plan to replace and clean up some/lots of wiring. Anyone give me a good reason not to skip pulling motor for full rebuild if replace all the wear items?

Though a short cab it has a stereo that when truck was new and presented well won over a dozen stereo competitions in the 100 watt class back when those were big. Have two original Punch 45s from when they were still hand built in the founders garage plus pull power from one set of wires to run a set of A Pillar mounted tweeters. Has pair of JL Audio 10" subs behind seats, 6.5" coaxials in rear corners, same in doors (Memphis Audio) plus a set of 4"×6" plates hidden in kick panels. Gotten used to back up camera plus integrated GPS in the new truck so plan is to pull old head unit and replace with a DIN size unit that has a slide out/flip up screen. Truck has three ham radios (Yaesu 70cm 2/6/10 meter, Icom 880H dual band D-Star and Icom All Band/All Mode with MARS/CAP freeband mod) plus a C.B. Since the All Band radio will transmit/receive on 11 meters may remove the C.B. Also has alarm, hidden dash cam, electronic police issue electronic long gun lock (behind seats) and flexible mount that holds a netbook similar to laptop setup in cop cars which use to integrate all the radios plus do digital communications. Finally it has a Wilson Cell phone booster that when drop my phone in holder it bumps power from maximum 1/3 watt for handheld phone to a hands free three watt phone with external antenna.

When majority of electronics went in most of interior was pulled so could line the floors, inside of doors, firewall and any metal could get to with Dynamat sound dampener. Except for minor modifications mentioned, plan to have interior detailed, install a dash pad (first crack recently started showing) install new seat covers and call that part done as kept my electronics updated as needed through the years in all trucks. Has the sagging door, broken jamb welded till nothing left to weld up without burning up so have second replacement drivers door which matches faded red of truck. Replaced the passenger side a while back but both will need all new weather stripping/rubber seals as it's all falling apart. Once deal with suspension, underside, engine compartment/motor and interior have to help exterior.

Over thirty years and 1/2 million miles have bent a front fender, replaced both doors and was rear ended once requiring a rear quarter panel. Like Jacob's Coat of Many Colors call it my Truck of Many Colors All Red. Had to spray roof when painted fender replaced using single stage urethane paint. Truck is at least six or seven different shades of red but is near laser straight except one small crease in rear quarter panel I noticed after jumped all four wheels off the ground going over a high spot way too fast but a little hammer and dolly work will fix it up. Can't decide if going to paint it (afraid when done will see several tiny dents missed) using single stage paint again (no way doing base coat/clear coat) or if will use a satin red vinyl to wrap it. Have wrapped lots of trucks and vans but good wrap material is way more expensive than paint. Also afraid as worn current paint is wrap won't stick unless seal it or paint it first.

Apologize for the abbreviated New Testament but looks like doctors may be releasing me after recover from upcoming spine surgery in July to go back to work full time. Been going through treatments and surgeries for two types of cancer for over a year and soon as they tell me am free to do manual labor plan is to fix my Dakota before tell my clients am back working or will never have time to fix my truck. Probably cheaper to buy a good used Dakota but this truck and I have a history and plan to drive it till they slide my casket in the back. (No joke, we put one of my uncle's in back of his work truck, ladders on rack and tied him in with ratchet straps and bungee cords for his ride to the grave) Never ridden in a hearse yet and plan is to in back of the Dakota. Input on things that need to be fixed while tearing in as deep as planning will be greatly appreciated.

 

Rumor has it, dodge will be bringing back the dakota here in the not so distant future...... Ford brought back the Ranger, so, real possibility.

 

Yes Ram not Dodge, Fiat has changed name to Ram dropping Dodge from truck line) and the new Dakota will be a small truck not a mid size truck. Dealer fleet manager have purchased eight Dodge trucks from and internet is saying it will likely be based off the Fiat truck marketed in South America which is very small, comes standard with a three cylinder motor but with some cosmetic upgrades and four cylinder with six cylinder option.
Instead of competing with its former self or the mid size Chevy Colorado is designed to compete with the Ford Maverick.
Thus when the "new Dakota" hits dealer lots its most likely going to be a D50 size truck not a historic Dakota mid-size. I know investors and dealers that are buying all the later generation low mileage Dakotas they can and putting back in storage as prices keep going up on our beloved Dakotas. Rather than put probably $40,000 to $50,000 into a tiny D50 size Fiat that will likely be a plastic and beer can thin aluminum truck restore the 1993 with a $15,000 to $20,000 budget and shop for a nice clean third generation 2009 to 2011 truck. Found one recently with under 25,000 miles but had short bed but am looking seriously.

In addition to downsizing the Dakota on re-release (told the three cylinder option is likely going to be the base model) Ram/Fiat is about to discontinue the Hemi for a new "Hurricane" series engine, Thank the Lord there are millions of Gen 3 (really a better motor than earlier Hemis) Hemi's in junk yards and planning to buy several to put back with my old Hemi collection. Yes, this is a pile of Hemis.have hoarded back and have a room full of transmissions including six NOS 727s purchased at an Air Force surplus auction.



Have enough vintage Mopar parts and such could sell and go buy truck of my choice but all new trucks are plastic and beer can subdivision cruisers unless get into 3500s then add a half ton of armor to protect the plastic parts on them. I am not buying any Tuck branded as a "Ram Truck" if it does not say Dodge on the sides and back end have no use for it. Wife wants another Club Cab long Bed 2500 diesel and looking for a 2003 that's clean or earlier as post 2003 the Cummins is not what built their reputation. Came across a really nice 2001 2500 Cummins 4WD and laughed at seller for asking $20,000 so passed information to a friend who paid the $20K, had it detailed from exterior, underside, interior, did a proper service then sold it for $30,000.

Lots of folks like me are wanting clean, low mileage Dodge trucks with less electronics rather than newer Ram trucks have discovered clean ones with under 50,000 miles can bring almost price of a new one. Why I bought the 2007 Hemi as was garage kept with only 40,000 miles. Original owner was a banker who used it to carry golf clubs and go deer hunting. Plan is find wife her 1999-2003 2500, restore my Dakota, sell this new Colorado then possibly restore my 1997 Club cab with a Mopar crate motor as a start. These four door trucks with short beds are useless for work, add a long bed and can't park them in most parking lots or fit in garage. Really miss the club cab option as like some room behind the front seats but still want a long bed that's not so long its tail end hangs four feet out into lanes of parking lots. Have had our 2007 Mega Cab Long Bed purposely vandalized with perpetrators leaving note once and keying message into paint once not to park such a big truck in parking lot and block traffic. Ram trucks are not what Dodge trucks are and soon when the Hemi is gone will be the end.