Clutch or master and slave?
#11
01-28-2024, 10:17 AM
Champion
Back around 1978-80, I saw an ad for someone to write Chilton's repairs manuals. The only requirements were you had to have a H.S. diploma. I ave books written back in the 1930's and 40's. Those were written by mechanics for mechanics.
It was a Dodge Dakota with a manual where I figured out to push the rod in. Different vehicles use similar parts so it didn't have to be a Dakota where I learned it.
Last edited by ol' grouch; 01-28-2024 at 10:18 AM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn
#12
01-28-2024, 05:51 PM
Chilton's used to be THE book to go to. After the mid 1970's, they started to go down hill. They are now owner by Haynes which is a little better, but not great. I'll get one if I get a vehicle I don't have experience with mostly for the specifications and capacities.
You install the Master cylinder on the firewall. Have the assembly about 3/4 full of fluid. With the slave cylinder removed from the bell housing, there will be a rod that pushes against the fork in the housing. Push the rod slowly into the slave cylinder. You'll hear a gurgling or bubbling sound from the master cylinder. You might need to do this 2 or 3 times. Eventually, you won't get any more air out. Then bolt the slave onto the bell housing and top the master up to the full line.
You install the Master cylinder on the firewall. Have the assembly about 3/4 full of fluid. With the slave cylinder removed from the bell housing, there will be a rod that pushes against the fork in the housing. Push the rod slowly into the slave cylinder. You'll hear a gurgling or bubbling sound from the master cylinder. You might need to do this 2 or 3 times. Eventually, you won't get any more air out. Then bolt the slave onto the bell housing and top the master up to the full line.
#13
01-28-2024, 06:14 PM
Champion
ok so I got the slave pumped and I am able to put it into gear…mostly. Now we are making progress cause I am able to put it into gear and clutch has noticeably more pressure. Now with that said I do have to pump the clutch sometimes to shift in or out of gear cause it looses a little pressure but works again. Does this mean I need to get more air out?
Possibly. Is the push rod on the new cylinder the same length as the old one? If they are, burp it again. I'd also push a long rod or screwdriver into the bell housing opening and make sure the shift fork is solid. I've seen forks get crack and each time you use the clutch, they bend a little. That;s pretty rare though. This is a new assembly with both cylinders new isn't it?
#14
01-28-2024, 08:09 PM
Possibly. Is the push rod on the new cylinder the same length as the old one? If they are, burp it again. I'd also push a long rod or screwdriver into the bell housing opening and make sure the shift fork is solid. I've seen forks get crack and each time you use the clutch, they bend a little. That;s pretty rare though. This is a new assembly with both cylinders new isn't it?
#16
01-28-2024, 08:51 PM
Champion
No this is the one that was in the truck already. I’m not sure if the ones in there already are bad so I was trying this before I started throwing money at it. This is the first time in months this truck has been at least driveable though. I drove around the block a few times today and only had to pump the clutch a few times to get it to shift but it made it around the block a few times. So we are on the right path.
Okay, so the post above this one talks about a bleed valve. The 1st gen Dakota I worked on didn't have one. Does your Dakota have a bleed valve? If you have a bleed valve, here's a good way to bleed the system.
Get some plastic tubing that will squeeze onto the bleed valve snugly. 5 or 6 feet. You also need a clear bottle to use with it. I save old Maple Syrup bottles as they have that decorative little handle. That's handy to wire it in place. Put about an inch or two of brake fluid in the bottle.Raise the bottle a few feet above the cylinder, run the hose with the bleed valve cracked slightly open. Not wide open, just cracked open. Take the top off the master cylinder and top it off. Gently press the clutch pedal and then gently release. DO NOT slam your foot on it as it will make the fluid spurt and brake fluid eats paint. The fluid will slowly raise up the hose. You will loop the hose over and into the bottle. The high point in the hose is where the air will collect. As the master goes down, fill it back up. Once you quit getting bubbles, undo the wire holding the bottle in place and lower it below the slave cylinder. Then pop the hose off the bleeder and hold it up so the fluid will drain and not spill on the paint. Close the bleeder and you should have good pedal if the cylinders are good.
#17
01-29-2024, 08:01 AM
Okay, so the post above this one talks about a bleed valve. The 1st gen Dakota I worked on didn't have one. Does your Dakota have a bleed valve? If you have a bleed valve, here's a good way to bleed the system.
Get some plastic tubing that will squeeze onto the bleed valve snugly. 5 or 6 feet. You also need a clear bottle to use with it. I save old Maple Syrup bottles as they have that decorative little handle. That's handy to wire it in place. Put about an inch or two of brake fluid in the bottle.Raise the bottle a few feet above the cylinder, run the hose with the bleed valve cracked slightly open. Not wide open, just cracked open. Take the top off the master cylinder and top it off. Gently press the clutch pedal and then gently release. DO NOT slam your foot on it as it will make the fluid spurt and brake fluid eats paint. The fluid will slowly raise up the hose. You will loop the hose over and into the bottle. The high point in the hose is where the air will collect. As the master goes down, fill it back up. Once you quit getting bubbles, undo the wire holding the bottle in place and lower it below the slave cylinder. Then pop the hose off the bleeder and hold it up so the fluid will drain and not spill on the paint. Close the bleeder and you should have good pedal if the cylinders are good.
Get some plastic tubing that will squeeze onto the bleed valve snugly. 5 or 6 feet. You also need a clear bottle to use with it. I save old Maple Syrup bottles as they have that decorative little handle. That's handy to wire it in place. Put about an inch or two of brake fluid in the bottle.Raise the bottle a few feet above the cylinder, run the hose with the bleed valve cracked slightly open. Not wide open, just cracked open. Take the top off the master cylinder and top it off. Gently press the clutch pedal and then gently release. DO NOT slam your foot on it as it will make the fluid spurt and brake fluid eats paint. The fluid will slowly raise up the hose. You will loop the hose over and into the bottle. The high point in the hose is where the air will collect. As the master goes down, fill it back up. Once you quit getting bubbles, undo the wire holding the bottle in place and lower it below the slave cylinder. Then pop the hose off the bleeder and hold it up so the fluid will drain and not spill on the paint. Close the bleeder and you should have good pedal if the cylinders are good.
#18
01-29-2024, 08:11 AM
Champion
That's the way I self bleed brakes when no one is around to pump. However, I always have the bottle on the ground below brakes. It can't suck air back because of the gravity of the liquid at the tip of the hose. Having it higher would increase the siphon effect, no? (auto tranny on my Dak)
The hose has to go up to a loop or bend, then down to the bottle. This way the air bubble will rise to the top. With the hose going down only, the bubble will rise up to the valve. The fluid in the bottle will keep the bubble from going backward to the valve. I've used vacuum pumps, but this is more effective and reliable.
#19
01-29-2024, 09:14 AM
The hose has to go up to a loop or bend, then down to the bottle. This way the air bubble will rise to the top. With the hose going down only, the bubble will rise up to the valve. The fluid in the bottle will keep the bubble from going backward to the valve. I've used vacuum pumps, but this is more effective and reliable.
#20
01-29-2024, 11:16 AM
Okay, so the post above this one talks about a bleed valve. The 1st gen Dakota I worked on didn't have one. Does your Dakota have a bleed valve? If you have a bleed valve, here's a good way to bleed the system.
Get some plastic tubing that will squeeze onto the bleed valve snugly. 5 or 6 feet. You also need a clear bottle to use with it. I save old Maple Syrup bottles as they have that decorative little handle. That's handy to wire it in place. Put about an inch or two of brake fluid in the bottle.Raise the bottle a few feet above the cylinder, run the hose with the bleed valve cracked slightly open. Not wide open, just cracked open. Take the top off the master cylinder and top it off. Gently press the clutch pedal and then gently release. DO NOT slam your foot on it as it will make the fluid spurt and brake fluid eats paint. The fluid will slowly raise up the hose. You will loop the hose over and into the bottle. The high point in the hose is where the air will collect. As the master goes down, fill it back up. Once you quit getting bubbles, undo the wire holding the bottle in place and lower it below the slave cylinder. Then pop the hose off the bleeder and hold it up so the fluid will drain and not spill on the paint. Close the bleeder and you should have good pedal if the cylinders are good.
Get some plastic tubing that will squeeze onto the bleed valve snugly. 5 or 6 feet. You also need a clear bottle to use with it. I save old Maple Syrup bottles as they have that decorative little handle. That's handy to wire it in place. Put about an inch or two of brake fluid in the bottle.Raise the bottle a few feet above the cylinder, run the hose with the bleed valve cracked slightly open. Not wide open, just cracked open. Take the top off the master cylinder and top it off. Gently press the clutch pedal and then gently release. DO NOT slam your foot on it as it will make the fluid spurt and brake fluid eats paint. The fluid will slowly raise up the hose. You will loop the hose over and into the bottle. The high point in the hose is where the air will collect. As the master goes down, fill it back up. Once you quit getting bubbles, undo the wire holding the bottle in place and lower it below the slave cylinder. Then pop the hose off the bleeder and hold it up so the fluid will drain and not spill on the paint. Close the bleeder and you should have good pedal if the cylinders are good.