So I have a 2001 4.7 v8 rear wheel drive Dakota manual trans.
i got home one day and the clutch is almost non existent when you push it in. I mean no pressure at all, but what I think is weird is even though there is no pressure the engine will still turn over with the clutch pushed in. The clutch moves in and out and just has no pressure. What’s even more weird is I can go into gear with the truck off but once it’s turned over it won’t go into gear. Now I just found out today which is why I’m making this post is that for whatever reason when I pump the brakes with the truck on and quickly push in the clutch after pumping the brakes about four times then the clutch has pressure long enough to switch gears but the second I let the clutch out again there’s no pressure until I pump the brakes again. From my understanding the brake and clutch lines are separate so I’m confused and don’t want to drop thousands on my clutch if its not the problem and it’s just something simple. I live in Utah so if your able to get eyes on it possibly it’d be great, but this is my first used vehicle and first truck and I have very little knowledge so really any verbal info is a great help as well. Please help cause I do love this truck.

 

That's a hydraulic problem. Brake and clutch are separate systems, no clue why pumping the brakes would make the clutch work..... Check the fluid in the reservoir for the clutch, is there any in there??

 

You have a problem with your Command and Actuator cylinders. (It's not politically correct to say Master and Slave. No, I'm not joking.) Either you're low on fluid or one of the cylinders is failing. Your clutch is working just fin, for now. However, it's still dragging when you shift so you're slowly wearing it out faster than normal. A new cylinder can be fun to bleed, but it's doable. I'd replace both if you need one.

 

The fluid reservoir is full and yes I thought it was weird as well that pumping the brakes would make it work but for whatever reason it does. I tested it a few different times and every time after pumping brakes the clutch will hold pressure. I’m just hoping someone didn’t Frankenstein my truck.

 

Oh I did not know that I was using the wrong names, thank you. But the cylinders that are in the 01 do not bleed and I’m not sure how to bleed the line without the bleeder to check if that’s the issue.

 

It probably comes as an assembly, slave, master, line, the whole shebang. And no, I really don't give a rats patoot about 'politically correct'.

 

I don't care either but parts people often only know what is on the computer. While the lower cylinder at the clutch doesn't have a bleed valve, I have bled them before. Push the rod that actuates the clutch into the cylinder and air will bubble up. 2 or 3 times and it's bled. Top it off and bolt everything up. The air will rise to the top.

 

So push it in from the clutch pedal or from the slave cylinder? Cause I’m not sure what rod you’re talking about. Sorry again I’m new at all this and my chilton book helps but pretty much expects u to know what it’s saying haha and should I take the master or slave off?

 

Chilton's used to be THE book to go to. After the mid 1970's, they started to go down hill. They are now owner by Haynes which is a little better, but not great. I'll get one if I get a vehicle I don't have experience with mostly for the specifications and capacities.

You install the Master cylinder on the firewall. Have the assembly about 3/4 full of fluid. With the slave cylinder removed from the bell housing, there will be a rod that pushes against the fork in the housing. Push the rod slowly into the slave cylinder. You'll hear a gurgling or bubbling sound from the master cylinder. You might need to do this 2 or 3 times. Eventually, you won't get any more air out. Then bolt the slave onto the bell housing and top the master up to the full line.

 

I will give it a try and let you know. Thank you, this is the most info I’ve been able to get from anybody.