2002 Dodge Dakota 4X4 3.9L V6 NV3500 5-speed manual trans

Hello all. My Dakota suffered a clutch failure a few weeks ago. Currently the drive shafts, T-case, transmission, and clutch have been removed to install a clutch kit. Inside the trans bell housing is a whole lot of caked oil. Not sure if it is the trans input shaft seal or the engine block rear main seal. The truck has 205,000 miles on it and it does have a minor drip to the garage floor, but nothing of concern. With all the machinery and crud under there it's very difficult to pinpoint the source of that minor drip.

My question is, in its present state, does it make sense to remove the flywheel and install a new rear main seal now? I'm thinking with the trans and flywheel out of the way the job should be easier, particular in removing the oil pan. But I'm not certain the oil in the bell housing is from the rear main... so this job might not be necessary. On the other hand with the mileage on the engine maybe it's just a good idea to do it now. All this work is on a creeper without a lift. What do you think?

 

Supplemental: I read the Dodge service manual and examined the oil pan clearance again. The crux of the matter is how much the pan needs to drop to slide to the rear of the engine. There is about 1 1/4 inch vertical clearance between the oil pan and the rack & pinion steering assy and front differential; I might get a little more by jacking up the engine. But the manual is silent on that matter as well as the oil pump pickup.

Has anyone been here before? I could use the benefit of your experience.

 

With the trans and such out of the way, it isn't going to get any easier than it is right now. Keep in mind, that if you need to lift the engine for clearance, there won't be anything holding it in place. Best to lift from above with a cherry picker, or similar, so that it can't 'escape'.....

 

Is 1 1/4 inch vertical clearance between the oil pan and the rack & pinion steering assy and front differential sufficient clearance to pull the pan? Does the oil pump or the pickup need to be unbolted to slide the pan rearward? If so, how is that done with the pan unbolted but still in place?

 

That I don't know. On my fullsize 4x4..... there was enough room to drop the pan, with everything still in place, just had to remove the starter, and a couple brackets... I think I had 3 to 4 inches clearance between pan, and crossmember though... but, I had to drop the rear of the pan quite a ways to clear the bellhousing.