Hhhmmmm.... Full synthetic??? If so, that *may* inhibit proper break-in... It's too slippery. Which I find kinda wild.....

 

No, i use conventional

 

Why run 10W? It slows down cold oil delivery, so the hydraulic lifters are slower to prime, which is the tick you hear. I've been running 0W-20 for eons now.

 

I just thought thats what it takes, what should i run?

 

Even on my 1991 Chebby 350 vortec I run 5-30 and it is fine.

My wife 1993 Caravan the Father gave her ... was mothers car and she passed on, father gave it to the daughter because he hated it ... or did not want mothers things around reminding him.

He complained that the lifters made a little noise, the valve covers leaked, it used a quart of oil in between oil changes ... he was happy to give it to his daughter or me to get rid of it.
He used 10-30 oil in it.

I switched it to 5-30 like the manual suggest, the lifters quieted down, it stopped leaking oil and was still on the full mark when the oil was ready to change.
Was a huge difference I never expected .... I suggest run whatever the manual for your vehicle says is correct.

 

The 4.7 was designed to run on lighter weight oil. The 5.9 was designed to use 10-30, or 10-40. If it is rather hot, go with the 10W40....

The caravan wanted lighter weight oil. I would stick with the manufacturers recommendation for oil, as they are the ones that build the motor...... They would know what's best to run in it.

 

I could try 5w30, but i wouldn't think that would cause the issue

 

a lighter weight oil will help the lifter tick, as others have said the bore tolerances a little tight for a heavier oil.

Now I say that with an asterisk, because I run 15w50 and 20w50 in mine. But it's a fully built engine where we made some...modifications...to the block and oiling system to support a heavy oil, plus I run extraordinarily hot, so what starts thick ends up being thin anyways.

If the oil is too heavy, I could also see it glazing the cylinder wall, puddling at the oil ring and lifting the oil ring to get into the combustion chamber. Whereas a lighter oil will not puddle as much.

 

The hydraulic lifters tend to lose prime overnight and 0w flows fast when cold. The manuals say 5w-30 but the manuals are older than the trucks. Dealer fill has been 5w20 for eons now and 0W20 is the same weight when hot, so i run 0W. I believe 2007 and up, they officially began calling for 5w20 in the 4.7s.

With almost 350K, I get no soot in my tailpipe (after replacing valve stem seals). No rebuilds on engine nor tranny. Original timing chain, etc. So I have no fear of it being "too thin" as some would say.