I got a 2001 dodge Dakota 4.7 on a trade deal. Guy told me the timing was off… long story short the motor needs rebuilt or replaced depending on the damage. I’ve never done this. This is legit my first time doing a motor. Any tips?? While the motor is out should I put something else in it? Keep it the same?? I’m open to opinions. I like fast sh*t but I also want a hunting truck…

 

Unfortunately the 4.7 platform leaves a lot to be desired, and the aftermarket leaves even more to desire. In my opinion contrary to most on the internet its a very solid engine platform, it has its quirks like every other engine. #1 rule is do not overheat it and you can run a long time.

I don't really understand the timing is off issue, its either correct or it doesn't run, it cant just "Be off". I don't believe these are interference engines so if the timing chain jumped you should be ok. I would lean towards a cylinder head or rocker issue first, possibly head gasket. Followed by loose timing chains. Unfortunately you cannot check timing on these. The marks only line up every 32 revolutions or something like that, you need to remove and reset the chains, as long as you're doing that might as well replace chains, tensioners and guides. I would start with a compression test, followed by a leak down test on suspected cylinders.

By far not the easiest engine to break into rebuilding with, but there's nothing overly complicated about it, definitely need a service manual for setting up the timing set.

That chassis was also offered with a 5.9L 360 magnum so there's that option to swap, but they can be an even bigger boat anchor then the 4.7 unless you really pile money into it. Also the 3.9L V6 and 2.5L I4 were optional but they would be a downgrade in my opinion.

I say you can only learn by doing, just don't want to bite of more then you can chew, I mean options gerneally speaking are limitless, a 5.7 hemi could be done, but was never factory so you could really get into a rats nest of wiring projects, depending how OE you want it to look/function.

 

They are most definitely interference engines. When replacing valve stem seals, I was able to support the valves by rotating the engine till the piston was holding the valve up. If pistons can meet valves, that's an interference engine. You're right on the other part though. First thing I would check for is rocker ejection and if nothing is damaged, replace all the hydraulic lifters.

 

valid point, I did valve stem seals by pressurizing the cylinder so the idea had not crossed my mind.

 

I was pressurizing too, as air would get the stem to the to the maximum workable height. I still rotated though, so that if some mishap, like losing all the air etc., the valve would not fall into the cylinder. Used the old screwdriver sitting on piston while rotating method, to see when it would reach it's apex

 

I live dangerously, actually had trouble with the air rotating the engine and i couldn't keep a bar on the engine to hold it so I just proceeded and prayed wherever the piston stopped

 

It wasn't a fun job, that's for sure. I used rubber tie downs to hold the wrench in place so I could mess with the keepers.

 

You know there's a tool for that right? 3 ft breaker bar on the crank pulley. The duramax Allisons actually make a tool that locks the flexplate to the bellhousing. The blower engine, I had to hold the 3ft ratchet on the supercharger hub.

Back to OP topic though, if the chains have enough slack to have jumped a tooth (which IS possible), it probably needs some other TLC too. The 4.7 has 3 chains and they all have to be exactly right.

 

It worked out, I don't for see doing stem seals on a 4.7 again, or any engine, its my second time doing stem seals on a motor for oil consumption, and neither time fixed it

 

It worked on mine. Not that it was using much oil to begin with, but I was getting an occasional puff of smoke moving off from a stop. Now I don't get any smoke, no consumption or even soot in the tailpipe. 346K on it.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...tem-seals.html