i suppose if your going to do any suspension lift, either 2 or 3, you still have to get new wheels. if your gonna go for it, then go all the way its just a difference of $600 or so.

 

I know this is an old post, but here's my two cents anyway...

I agree, a suspension lift is definitely the way to go. A reliable source once told me that a 3" suspension lift with a 2" body lift is aperfect combination for Gen2 Dakotas. Not sure what the benefit tothe body lift is though.

For the type of offroading you'd most likelybe doing in a 2 wheel drive though, I'm not sure it's worth spending the money on a suspension lift. I recently checked out a lift for my '02 and it was around $3200 for a 3" suspension lift (installed). You can get a body lift for less than a quarter of that price. Just something to consider.

BTW - If anyone knows where I can find a suspension lift cheaper I'd be interested in checking it out. I'd like to get one this spring if I can afford it.

Virused - I checked out that link you posted (I know it'sprettyold)but I can only find kits for Rams. No Dakota stuff.
Any ideas where else I could check?

Thanks!

 

You need to get out more!

Obviously, you didn't look hard enough. This is a 3" Suspension lift for the 2wd Durango/Dakota (97-03)
http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/ap...tadurango.html

The only benefit of a 2" body lift on top of a 3" suspension lift is for tire clearance. Body lifts are definately more for looks than performance. BTW, I am not busting your chops by any means, I just don't think people give the 2wd Dakota enough credit. Of course the 4wd is better for some things, but the 2wd is the only way to go for desert racing, when you are using huge front travel suspension.

 

that fabtech kit has coil springs in it.....do the 4 and 6cyl daks have coil springs up front as opposed to torsion bars?

is itpossible/reasonabl to convert the front end from torsion bars to coil springs?

 

I don't think it has anything to do with motor size, as it does with transmissions. A 2wd will have springs, a 4wd will havetorsion bars(in our gen Dak anyway). You wouldn't be able to do the swap because the springs would be in the way of your front axels.

 

O that does make sence.....never though of that. Thanks

 

I was looking at the lift kits for myself also and I have a question or maybe two. First of all I saw that right now the Fabtech lifts are on sale. They have 2 difrent lifts for the 2wd. 1) The kit includes the coils, upper control arms front and rear shocks and the add a leaf and lift block for the rear and that for the 3" lift for $840 2) The smaller kits comes with the coil springs and front and rear shocks for $300. I know I saw the add a leaf kits elsewhere for fairly cheap so kit 2 not including them wouldn't be that big of a deal besides it's only a 2" lift.

My question is ...... how important is it to have the upper control arms for the 3" lift or even the 2" for that matter. I figure 3" isn'y going to make that big of a difrence with the angle of the upper control arm , ..... Is it? Enough thata bigger upper control arm isabsolutly needed. Are there spacers available for the front end if I was to get the 2" lift then later down the road decide to add spacers to the frontto squeeze out another 2". For the rear I would be able to buy the add a leaf for the intial 2" of lift then later when I added the spacers to the front (if they are available) I would be able to just add 2" lift blocks to the rear. I appriciate any suggestions.

 

You won't need new upper control arms for the 2" lift, only the 3" lift. The advantage, besides stronger than stock upper control arms, is that the upper ball joints are used from a 94-98, IIRC, Chevy 1/2 ton. This comes with greasable ball joints that cost $20 to replace. Not only that, but it is wider (wheel to wheel) than the stock setup. This means when you get your alignment, you will actually have a wider front end. Unfortunately, this also means that your stock wheels won't work. (Unless you get the wheel spacers (I like to call them hub extenders because they extend the hub 1.5") like I did, as the aftermarket wheel selection for our trucks isn't that plentiful. It is also hard to find a nice looking wheel with the correct offset in the limited selection of aftermarket wheels) Your stock wheels also wont work if you want to go wider than 11" with your new tires. (You can go wider with your stock wheel but it is NOT A GOOD IDEA!) The 3" lift kit is a steal for the price they are selling it for, it used to be almost $1,300.

Another reason that the new upper control arm is a must is because once you approach a spring that is lifting the front suspension more than 2", the angle of the stock control arm is at such an extreme angle that it doesn't allow the upper ball joints to move correctly.

In the end, the kit is great and compliments a Dak with allowing bigger tires and great ground clearance. The front of my Dak (in the center by the steering rack) has almost 2 feet of ground clearance (with 33" tires). I know a bunch of the guys over at Fabtech and their customer service is top notch. They don't try to sell you anything, and are very informative.

Just my $.02

 

The site I was on has them on sale and the normal price was $1050. It doesn't look like they come with new upper ball joints, or atleast it didn't specify that it does anyway. What I were to use the 2" kit and then add spacers on top of the coil springs? That would give me 4 inches and I still wouldn't need new upper control arms, as well as getting an extra 1" of lift. Even with buying the rear add a leaf and doing it this way it would still come in alot cheaper than the 3" kit. That would help me save a little cash so I could get the black procomp steelies from 4wheel customs and the bfg's I want. This method would also allow me to buy the stuff as time goes on instead of having to throw down 2 grand in one shot for the lift, wheels and sneaks.

Whats your opinion on this plan here?

 

depends if your just going for looks great, if its going off road...ehhh idk