DIY rear sway bar links and bushings *Pic heavy*
#1
DIY rear sway bar links and bushings *Pic heavy*
Here is the DIY for sway bar links and bushings:
Parts: Moog sway bar links, and moog sway bar bushings 16mm.
I bought it from Rockauto.com for $55, they shipped very fast (2 days)
tools: 18mm wrench, 5/8 ratchet, wd40 or pblaster.
Here are the parts out of the box.
here is the 2 bolts that hold down the bushings, there are 2 of them. remove these with the 5/8 ratchet.
old sway bar links, you need to use the 5/8 and the 18mm to bet the bolts off. both from where it attaches to the frame and the sway bar itself.
old sway bar removed.
old bushings vs new
old links vs new. moogs feel much heavier and sturdy. you have to assemble the bushings into the openings on either end of the links. just use a little wd-40 to make them slide in easier.
heres what the bushing looks like in the C cover thing.
Next, install the links onto the frame. without the sway bar attached.once you get both links on, then attach the sway bar to the bottom part of the links
now line up the c-clamp bushing part on either side of the diff.
now just bolt everything down.
reinstall shock if you needed to remove it in the first place.
this was really easy to do. probably start to finish under 2 hrs. i havent driven with them yet but i will update on how they feel.
any questions let me know!
Parts: Moog sway bar links, and moog sway bar bushings 16mm.
I bought it from Rockauto.com for $55, they shipped very fast (2 days)
tools: 18mm wrench, 5/8 ratchet, wd40 or pblaster.
Here are the parts out of the box.
here is the 2 bolts that hold down the bushings, there are 2 of them. remove these with the 5/8 ratchet.
old sway bar links, you need to use the 5/8 and the 18mm to bet the bolts off. both from where it attaches to the frame and the sway bar itself.
old sway bar removed.
old bushings vs new
old links vs new. moogs feel much heavier and sturdy. you have to assemble the bushings into the openings on either end of the links. just use a little wd-40 to make them slide in easier.
heres what the bushing looks like in the C cover thing.
Next, install the links onto the frame. without the sway bar attached.once you get both links on, then attach the sway bar to the bottom part of the links
now line up the c-clamp bushing part on either side of the diff.
now just bolt everything down.
reinstall shock if you needed to remove it in the first place.
this was really easy to do. probably start to finish under 2 hrs. i havent driven with them yet but i will update on how they feel.
any questions let me know!
Last edited by thunder98110; 10-13-2010 at 06:18 PM.
#2
#5
#6
yeah wow, i never thought i would feel a difference. rear end sticks to the ground on corners like glue. way better. i didnt realize how bad he stockers were. i recomend this to anyone. relativity cheap and well worth it. moog ftw.
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#8
well on sunday i went to the state park and was driving around on the concrete and there were these strips of raised concrete every 20 feet or so. when i drove over them it would go clunk clunk. it was really annoying, there were people camping there staring and me while i drove by. so i got under here and the bottom sway bar link where it connects to the actual sway bar was a lot of play. so basically noise. and i wanted too and nearly 130k miles on them might as well replace them.
#9
well on sunday i went to the state park and was driving around on the concrete and there were these strips of raised concrete every 20 feet or so. when i drove over them it would go clunk clunk. it was really annoying, there were people camping there staring and me while i drove by. so i got under here and the bottom sway bar link where it connects to the actual sway bar was a lot of play. so basically noise. and i wanted too and nearly 130k miles on them might as well replace them.