Harricharan,
How is your statement relative to the converstion?
FF

 

Thanks for posting guys! I had so many questions but they have pretty much been resolved.

 

.....

 

The negative reference above about old, 1975 research isn't valid. In 1980 I was pumping 10W-30 petroleum oil out of a 60 gallon tank to change oil in the dumptrucks at my dad's work. The tanks were in a non-heated pole building and it pumped easier than a cheap 5W-20 oil will pour today in cold weather.

 

Your statement is meaningless. Maybe if you had poured the 1980 10W-30 out of a bottle at the same temp, it would have made a bit more sense (and only a bit). Oil has made vast improvements since this thread was initially posted, much less 1980.

 

Ha. I see what u mean. I had a prev post that I edited that went along with this but somehow it ended up with just the period displaying.
My point is this. Back in 1980 I could pump 1980 spec oil out of a hand pump at 0 degrees and pour it into an engine.
The guy that puts cheap, Walmart or any other gas station brand, 5W-20 oil in his truck because his manual says he should is not being smarter than the guy that put quality 10W-30 in it. Yes, oil has come a long way since 1980. That means you can buy much better oil but there is still oil that's worse for your engine than that 1980 10W-30 I used to use. If a current spec, cheap, 5W-20 turns to glue at 0 degrees it is not a better oil to put in your truck than the quality 1980 10W-30 or even better option, quality current spec 10W-30.

Yes, the current 10W-30 is better than the 1980 10W-30. But one winter of starting your engine with cheap 5W-20 glue for oil is worse than using a good 10W-30, 1980 or current spec.

 

Also, the manual says not to use oil additives. What do you think oil is, a base and additives. Different oils use different additives and some manufacturers determine which additives their oil will get based on cost, not quality of product or quality of research. That's why the cheap 5W-20 doesn't perform the same as the exact same API spec 5W-20 from a quality brand. I would doubt that any additive on the market today would ruin the quality of the cheap brand oil.

You could put 6 qts of cheap 5W-20 oil in your hemi and add the last quart using a good synthetic and you've just improved the oil that engine is using. I would not add an additive to a good full synthetic because the additive is probably petroleum based and will lower the quality of the synthetic.

 

Dupe.... need to delete

 

Conventional wisdom and the oil makers say that the lower the winter weight (W), the faster it flows at cold start. I think you'd have to search hard to find a crappy 5W that would be that bad at zero degrees. The whole point is..it should perform better than a 10W. I certainly wouldn't run 10W anything nowadays. In fact, I am currently running 0W-20 in this 4.7L. With almost 300K, it cackles like a diesel on cold start and the quicker flow quickly silences that. I'm not worried about 20 weight protection when it gets hot, cause I'm using a good full synthetic. Dealerships have been putting in 5W-20 in these engines for years.

Yes, oil is base and additives, but at least it's all formulated and tested together. When you buy an additive and pour in, it can either improve the oil or degrade it. The best oils have the toughest film at the upper reaches and do not need additives.

I'll share this site with you. Long but interesting read, if you like to read on oils. I'm running Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0W-20, in case you're interested.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

 

Youtube has plenty of videos showing cheap oil barely pouring while quality oil of the same weight pours much better. There are vids of 10W-40 full synthetic pouring much easier than a cheap conventional 5W-20. Simply put, my thinking is that don't feel you're being smarter than the next guy that's using quality 10W-30 when you follow your manual and end up putting cheap 5W-20 in the engine.

Yes, the base and additives in the oil are formulated to work together. However, not all manufacturers put together a good formulation even if it was designed together.
I use Mobil 1 in my Jasper engine still under warranty (not allowed to use extended drain intervals) and Amsoil in everything else including my 1956 ******.

I also like a good 0W oil and have good luck with it.