Is there an easy way to lower a 2008 by 1-1.5"?
#1
Is there an easy way to lower a 2008 by 1-1.5"?
Hi All,
Just bought a 2008 Durango SLT 4x4. It has the 4.7 and the OEM 20s.
Coming from the Jeep offroad world, I don't normally run 20s or lower anything, but my parking structure at work is an issue. The Jeep is my wife's Daily Driver because it no longer fits, and I will be driving the Durango. Had an '08 Grand Caravan, and it didn't suit me, so I traded to this.
My issue is this: the parking structure has an advertised clearance of 6'. From the stage 1 lift on the Jeep, I know that I can get away with 6'1". The Durango measures out at 73.5 or 6'1-1/2".
I want to lower it by only 1-1.5". I know it is 4x4, but don't flame me, I just want to keep the roof rails intact (I did manage to find one spot to chunk out the Jeep's hard top).
Some more background:
1) I will most likely sell the 20s and get 18" or *maybe* 17" wheels. Also most people here run 2 sets, one for winter tires.
2) I am OK with dropping just the rear, as I will most likely want an aggressive pre-runner look (with no lift) and level out the Durango
3) So far from what I see the only real kits for Gen 2 are 3" drop. This is a little too much for my own liking, but would be my last resort, in which case I would go for a performance look.
4) Are Gen 1 or other model springs an option?
I would be open to a DIY solution as well.
Thanks for any feedback!
Darren
Just bought a 2008 Durango SLT 4x4. It has the 4.7 and the OEM 20s.
Coming from the Jeep offroad world, I don't normally run 20s or lower anything, but my parking structure at work is an issue. The Jeep is my wife's Daily Driver because it no longer fits, and I will be driving the Durango. Had an '08 Grand Caravan, and it didn't suit me, so I traded to this.
My issue is this: the parking structure has an advertised clearance of 6'. From the stage 1 lift on the Jeep, I know that I can get away with 6'1". The Durango measures out at 73.5 or 6'1-1/2".
I want to lower it by only 1-1.5". I know it is 4x4, but don't flame me, I just want to keep the roof rails intact (I did manage to find one spot to chunk out the Jeep's hard top).
Some more background:
1) I will most likely sell the 20s and get 18" or *maybe* 17" wheels. Also most people here run 2 sets, one for winter tires.
2) I am OK with dropping just the rear, as I will most likely want an aggressive pre-runner look (with no lift) and level out the Durango
3) So far from what I see the only real kits for Gen 2 are 3" drop. This is a little too much for my own liking, but would be my last resort, in which case I would go for a performance look.
4) Are Gen 1 or other model springs an option?
I would be open to a DIY solution as well.
Thanks for any feedback!
Darren
#2
dropping 2008
First off going with 17 or 18" rims will do nothing as all the stock tires are 30.5" you would need to drop to a 28 tire to gain 1". I have a 2008 and have droppe dit jsut about 1.75" in the back and 1" in the front. I have the factory 20" and will measure the hight tomorrow. I park next to a 2004 thats all stock and am sure its much lower. Sonce the highest point it the back thats where i will measure.
The fronts you can jsut drop by the torsion bars, the rear i cut excactly 1 coil off and its just what im was looking for. I also did the same to my 2004.
The ride is perfect and I also tow a 19 foot boat with no problem or rubbing. I run the SRT 22' in the summer with no rubbing at all.
The fronts you can jsut drop by the torsion bars, the rear i cut excactly 1 coil off and its just what im was looking for. I also did the same to my 2004.
The ride is perfect and I also tow a 19 foot boat with no problem or rubbing. I run the SRT 22' in the summer with no rubbing at all.
#5
First off going with 17 or 18" rims will do nothing as all the stock tires are 30.5" you would need to drop to a 28 tire to gain 1". I have a 2008 and have droppe dit jsut about 1.75" in the back and 1" in the front. I have the factory 20" and will measure the hight tomorrow. I park next to a 2004 thats all stock and am sure its much lower. Sonce the highest point it the back thats where i will measure.
The fronts you can jsut drop by the torsion bars, the rear i cut excactly 1 coil off and its just what im was looking for. I also did the same to my 2004.
The ride is perfect and I also tow a 19 foot boat with no problem or rubbing. I run the SRT 22' in the summer with no rubbing at all.
The fronts you can jsut drop by the torsion bars, the rear i cut excactly 1 coil off and its just what im was looking for. I also did the same to my 2004.
The ride is perfect and I also tow a 19 foot boat with no problem or rubbing. I run the SRT 22' in the summer with no rubbing at all.
Cutting 1 coil might be an option, I will wait to hear back what you measure. I measured just in front of the rear wheels where the pass door closes. I got 73.5" at the top of the roof rack and would aim for 72". I got the same measurement from an '04 on a lot near my house.
Your photo with the boat and load, is that with the cut coils?
Thanks!
Darren
#6
#7
Tthe torsion bar will only drop the front. You can see from my orignal picture above when Durangos are stock they have a pretty defined rake where the back is higher than the front. In the attached photo I just took I ran a straight edge across the roof racks and measured 73" at the front point and 72" at rear as well as 34" wheel well to ground. Thats with stock 265/50/20" yokahama's
The photo with the boat is with the rear dropped. The back end was loaded with cargo and the boat has about 400 lbs on the ball. I jsut loaded it with 18- 40 lb bags of pellets and the rear still wasnt dragging.
The photo with the boat is with the rear dropped. The back end was loaded with cargo and the boat has about 400 lbs on the ball. I jsut loaded it with 18- 40 lb bags of pellets and the rear still wasnt dragging.
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#9
Tthe torsion bar will only drop the front. You can see from my orignal picture above when Durangos are stock they have a pretty defined rake where the back is higher than the front. In the attached photo I just took I ran a straight edge across the roof racks and measured 73" at the front point and 72" at rear as well as 34" wheel well to ground. Thats with stock 265/50/20" yokahama's
The photo with the boat is with the rear dropped. The back end was loaded with cargo and the boat has about 400 lbs on the ball. I jsut loaded it with 18- 40 lb bags of pellets and the rear still wasnt dragging.
The photo with the boat is with the rear dropped. The back end was loaded with cargo and the boat has about 400 lbs on the ball. I jsut loaded it with 18- 40 lb bags of pellets and the rear still wasnt dragging.
I am thinking 3" might be too much for me... I definitely want less rake though.
Are there any stickies or write ups on the torsion bar for the front?
Darren
#10
They is informaitn everywhere online, super easy, look the frame and look for a crossbar about midway front doors. You will see 2 large bolt heads pointing down. every turn counter clockwise equals 1/4" most go about 4-5 turns. Jusy hit them with WD-40 and with a jack take the weight off the front tires and just turn the bolts. Most will say to allign front end after but both of mine where never realigned and my tires wear fine and she track perfect. You can look in a small opening and see if how the bolts push up on the torsion keys. To drop the rear, remove the spare tire and shocks you will need to remove the large bolt holding the watts link on the rear axle. I had to palce a jack between the frame and axle to acutall get a little more room. Be carefull not to kink the rubber brake line, the coils will roll out. I would start with exactly one full coil but you may have to try it and go 1.25 coils. I tape the rubber coil bushng back on the top it helps to hold it to reinstall and the black tape isnt goint to hurt anything. I cut my coils with a air powered 3" cut off wheel. Do not use a torch.