I believe there is a cam relearn sync procedure that must be run anytime the cam or timing belt is disturbed. Check in the Snap on scanner for something like that.

Otherwise I would consider double checking the timing belt alignment.

 

Do you have cam/crank difference on your scan tool data? (in degrees) That could rule out or in some things. Look at all your base data (keyon/engine off) like MAP, CTS, ect.

 

The scantool software I just bought doesn't appear to have a cam/crank sensor reading but I am still familiarizing myself with it. I will check it out.

I have access to the Snap-on scanner for short periods as I have to borrow it when it is not in use. Will check that too. I bought an oscilliscope that will allow me to better see some of these sensor signals directly now. It arrived today.

Will post updates on the suggestions you guys have made soon. Thanks for the help and keep it coming. I did notice now that after it starts, if I press the pedal to the floor, it only accelerates to a point and then the throttle cuts out. I am now suspecting a problem with the throttle body (TPS sensor of servo motor). I have a new pedal sensor assembly I am going to try too.

 

So what are the results of the compression check? I realize it is cool to chase electronic demons and is difficult to believe a broken valve spring will have the symptoms described. Basic to basics, this year, 2004, is known for broken valve springs. Hopefully, it is an intake, but when an exhaust spring breaks, it may destroy the engine. Do s simple check instead of chasing ghosts. A severely leaking intake og unmetered air could show these symptoms, bur you just replaced the intake gasket during the rebuild, so not likely.
One cylinder will show 0 compression. Simple.
Dave

 

I am using ODBCOM software. It does not show the cam crank difference. IT shows degrees of timing advance. I double checked the alignment of the timing chain and cam/crank sprockets. I know they are good.

There are 2 TPS sensor output signales coming from the throttle body. I have a good 5 volt anground reference. With the KOEO, as I manually open the throttle blade, one signal goes from approximately 5V to approvixmately 0V. The other sensor output just kind of flickers occasionally. What should the output of these 2 sensors be as I move the throttle plate by hand?

 

I haven't done it yet but will. Will let you know. Thanks.

 

Did anyone run the intake or the throttle body through a parts washer?

I dont have one available at the moment, but neither should be erratic in use or idling. Sometimes you'll see a small variation KOEO.

 

I used a little spray throttle body cleaner inside the bore. I was careful but I am sure a little bit of spray might have gotten inside TPS area.

I will be checking compression this weekend. I am also going to try to get a throttle body from the salvage yard.

 

No, I was referring to being in a hot water washer or immersed in some sort of solvent.

 

Cam/Crank Difference is 2.3 degrees.
I was not getting an output from one of the TPS sensor signals. Replaced the throttle body and both signals are working now.

Truck still won't run. I am getting an O2 sensor #1 voltage on one bank of 1 volt and the other is 0 volts. I thought this didn't matter until closed loop but that was based on my experience with ODB1. I think this says one bank is lean and the other is rich. I am getting DTC P0132 & P0152.

Have not done compression check yet. Still chasing these codes.

The local auto shop teacher told me to verify the latest calibration SW inthe PCM. My calivration ID is 56029039AL. Since it sat with no batteyr for several months, may need to be reflashed. Can anyone tell me if this is the latest calibration version?