I just finished rebuilding my brother's 04 Durango with 5.7 and the engine will only start if I give it some gas and hold the RPMs over 2,000 or else it stalls. Original problem was broken rod. Water got in cylinder 3. Everything is new. I am getting P0132 & P0152 while running and after it stalls I sometimes get P0131 & P0151. I have checked all wiring, especially the O2 sensors. I have checked and found no vacuum leaks. I used a code scanner to take snapshot and found:
Rel TPS - 10%
Throt MD - 10%
Acc POS B - 21
Acc POS D - 35
Acc POS E - 17

Do these numbers look correct? Can anybody help me troubleshoot this? Is there a calibration I need to do?

I have confirmed that fuel pressure is at 60 psi with pump running and holds at 57 psi when the pump is not. SInce it never gets out of open loop mode, I don't think the O2 sensors are an issue. Also the P0132 & P0152 codes say (pending) on the scanner. The MIL light never comes on.

It seems like something fundamental but I can't find it. It runs if I keep the RPMs over 2,000 but it runs a little rough. I tried holding propane bottle near vacuum lines and intake manifold gasket but no noticable change in RPM. Plus I was very careful installing intake manifold so I am sure new gasket is properly seated.

I had cleaned the throat of the throttle body with SeaFoam intake cleaner spray. Do I need to recalibrate the throttle positon sensor? Should all of these numbers be consistent:

Rel TPS - 10%
Throt MD - 10%
Acc POS B - 21
Acc POS D - 35
Acc POS E - 17


Any ideas?

Update - the ETC light starting flashing so finally I think I have something to go on. Is there a calibration or reset procedure I need to do? The engine was apart for several months so I am thinking the PCM lost its memory?

It is still throwing O2 codes (P0132 & P0152) but these should not affect starting or running for the first few minutes.

I think the problem is with the Electronic Throttle Control. Can anyone tell me the programming, reset, calibration, whatever procedure?

 

Can anyone offer some advice here?

I bottowed a Snap-on Moduc computer and performed the ETC calibration procedure. I can keep the truck running as long as I keep my foot on the pedal and keep it above about 1500 - 2000 rpms. It just won't idle. I have sprayed ether around the intake manifold and vacuum lines but since I can't get it to idle, I don't think I would see much of a difference anyway.

Can anyone help me?

 

Maybe a local engine builder can help with the problem.
FF

 

Broken valve spring. Do a compression check to see which cylinder. I had the exact symptoms.
Dave

 

Sweet:
Before you go any further, what kind of shape is the battery in? If the battery is weak and/or on the way out, all kinds of issue like this can arise.

In the event that the battery passes a proper load test, then I would also look further for vacuum leaks even though it sounds like you have done some of that.

Go back over all harness connectors to be sure they are fully seated.
You may also want to perform a battery disconnect reset by pulling the neg terminal off, and then depressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds.
Reconnect the neg terminal and fire it up.

If the D has not run for quite a while, there will be different signal levels that the computer will need to adjust to.

Don

 

As part of the rebuild, I had the local machine shop do a valve job for me. I did not replace the springs but I did install new rocker arm assemblies and new push rods and lifters. I was about to do a compression check but it would be a hell of a coincidence if one of the springs broke on initial startup. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the input. Keep it coming please...

 

Don, I have tried spraying starter fluid and propane along the intake manifold and vacuum lines. The problem is it is difficult to keep the engine running at 1500 RPMS (forget lower) so it is hard to tell if the engine surges. All gaskets are new and I have visually inspected the the brake booster line and EVAP vacuum lines. I was extremely careful installing the intake manifold so I am sure those seals are in place. I talked to a Dodge mechanic and he said it would run even if it had a vacuum leak.

The battery is brand new (February) and has passed several load tests but I am starting to suspect an electrical problem. The battery is draining quickly when the truck sits.

I have reconfirmed all alectrical connectors are installed properly and I have removed the connectors to make sure no pins are backed out. Also, I have reset the computer a few times.

Except for the knock from the broken rod, the engine ran before the rebuild so I don't believe there are any bad sensors. I did use a Snap-On Modus computer to check parameters and recalibrate the ETC (electronic throttle control). I did see several values related to throttle position but not sure what they all mean. Could use some help with understanding those values. The position percentage value did correlate with the position of the pedal and did change smoothly. I did clean the throttle body and was careful to avoing getting cleaner unside the TPS but maybe I caused a problem there?

I am going to run a compression/leak down test and look into the possible electrical problem some more. Please keep the ideas coming. I will report back what I find.

Jeff

 

Jeff:
Sorry that this project has become such a boondogle for you. I agree that a compression test should reassure you about integrity of the timing and head gaskets etc.

Can you somehow verify that the alternator is up to snuff once its running. These modern day vehicles especially Chrysler/Dodge seem to be very reliant on a good strong/stable reference voltage from the batt/alternator. If this is not the case, the many computers are very good at throwing a fit and producing crazy antics.

What is the build date on the drivers door label. There were quite a few 04 Hemi engines that got a bad batch of valve springs that eventually caused serious damage or the death of the engine (as in my case).

My D's build date is 01/04, and is on Hemi #2 courtesy of a collapsed valve spring on cylinder #3 at 39K. If you cannot prove beyond a reasonable doubt that your current springs are not suspect, I would get them out of there.

It's not worth saving the $80 for the 16 springs and risk all of your efforts and the rebuild money.

Don

 

Bump for update?

 

Sorry for taking so long with an update. Had to replace the heater core in my Camaro and AC evaporator in my Blazer. Godd times, good times :-(

My brother works at the local vocational tech school and put me in touch with the auto shop teacher. He has also suggested problems with voltage and/or grounds. I reverified all of the ground cables are tight and appear clean. I cleaned all of the maating surfaces with a dremel when I put it back together. I also detached all of the PCM connectors and reverified that all of the pins are staight, tight and in place. So far no issues found.

I ordered software and an ODB2 cable so I can verify sensor readings and voltages as seen by the PCM. I will be doing the leak down test and checking the valve springs as suggested by you guys this week, hopefully this Tuesday or Wednesday night. I will get the build date and confirm the alternator output voltage too.

Thanks guys. Keep those ideas coming.